20 Provinces of Isaan Thailand in 20 Days – Day 10
The Isaan region of Thailand never ceases to amaze me. I started my Isaan journey by spending 3 days in Nakhon Ratchasima where I also explored neighboring provinces of Buriram and Surin. Then, I was in Ubon Ratchathani and explored Sisaket. My next destination was Mukdahan, where I explored Nakhon Phanom, Sakon Nakhon, Yasothon, and Amnat Charoen. And now, I had arrived at Khon Kaen – one of the main cities of Isaan region. It is home to the largest university of North-East Thailand and is the commercial hub of the region. The city is popular among locals for its interesting attractions; however, it is not so touristy.
Highlights of the Day
- Saen Samran Hotel
- Tawanthong Vegetarian Food
- Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon
- Bueang Kaen Nakhon Lake
- Ton Tann Night Market
From Mukdahan to Saen Samran Hotel in Khon Kaen
There are plenty buses and minivans that connect Khon Kaen with Bangkok and other places in Thailand. I checked out from Hop Inn hotel in Mukdahan early in the morning, walked to the bus station, and boarded a minivan at around 7 AM. I packed a fruit packet for ฿20 from the bus station that I munched on while on the way to Khon Kaen. By 11 AM, I reached Khon Kaen Bus Terminal. I checked in at a very economical hotel called Saen Samran Hotel, which is located just 600 m away from the bus station. I got a fan-room with private bathroom for ฿750 for 3 nights.
Tawanthong Vegetarian Food
If you are in Khon Kaen and if you enjoy local cuisine, you got to visit this awesome vegan haven – Tawanthong Vegetarian Food. It is not only a restaurant, but also a shop that sells both edible and non-edible goods.
Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon
The most important temple site of Khon Kaen is the 80-m-high Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon, which stands as a museum, repository for Buddhist relics, meditation hall, scripture library, viewpoint, and a major symbol of Khon Kaen. It is located on the southwest bank of Bueng Kaen Nakhon Lake. I took a songthaew for ฿20 from Tawanthong Vegetarian Food Restaurant and it took only 5 min to reach here.
Bueang Kaen Nakhon Lake
Right behind the temple, you will find the beautiful lake of the city – Bueang Kaen Nakhon Lake. It spans a huge blanket of calm water, almost entirely surrounded by tree-lined parks, eateries, and temples.
Ton Tann Night Market
Even though Khon Kaen has its own night markets inside the city, I felt it is worth visiting Ton Tann, which is located a bit outside the city center. It is the largest night market in Khon Kaen. I boarded a public bus from outside the park to the night market. It cost me only ฿10.
While returning, I boarded a bus from the night market that was heading to the bus terminal, as the hotel was located close to the bus station. Luckily, the bus dropped me very close to the hotel.
20 Provinces of Isaan Thailand in 20 Days – Day 11
On the second day of my stay in Khon Kaen, I experienced a 2-h bus journey to Chaiyaphum. The place has some historical significance as many periods of civilization have overlapped here until the Laotian influence. However, at around 10 AM, it seemed like I reached in the middle of nowhere. I could hardly find any foreign or local travelers in the bus. It was pretty empty. Also, there is nothing much to see inside the city. However, there is a national park famous for its unique rock formation, located 100 km southwest of the town – Pa Hin Ngam National Park. Apart from its distinctive rock formations, the park is also famous for pink Siamese tulips that blanket the hills of the park, every June and July.
Highlights of the Day
- Pa Hin Ngam National Park
Pa Hin Ngam National Park in Chaiyaphum Province
As the park is located in a rural area where public transport does not reach, I bargained with a tuk-tuk driver for ฿300 round-trip. Then I packed a box of cut pineapples for breakfast from the bus station, and off I went! The journey was around 2 h.
On reaching the park, I chose to hop on a park-provided tram that shuttles from the information center to where most of the trails begin near the top of the mountain. I enjoyed cruising the park with few other locals while listening to some Isaan country music that blared over the shuttle speakers. We got down near the top where I followed others on a trail that led through a forest dotted with strange-looking rock formations.
Once at the top, the trees cleared just enough to catch a glimpse of the remote hills. Then, I walked over a green hillside with beautiful pink and white Siamese tulips hovering gracefully over the grass.
Gradually, I made my way toward that special part of the park that has a cluster of huge, oddly shaped rock formations with a “lollypop effect” – narrow bases and fat tops. This has given the park its name – Pa Hin Ngam, meaning forest of beautiful stones.
On returning to the entrance gate of the park, I found my tuk-tuk driver waiting for me to get me back to Chaiyaphum. There are few cheap eateries outside the park. I ate steamed rice with stir fried vegetables from one of them. It cost me just ฿30.
The tuk-tuk driver rushed me to Chaiyaphum bus station from where I boarded the bus back to Khon Kaen. As the distance is far, make sure you have enough time in hand. Also, it is better to visit the place on a weekday to avoid flower-peeping local crowds who visit the park over the weekend. I reached back my hotel at around 8 PM, and I sank in the bed in no time.
20 Provinces of Isaan Thailand in 20 Days – Day 12
On the third day of my stay in Khon Kaen, I treated it as a base to explore few more offbeat sites of Thailand. First, I headed to Maha Sarakham province, which is around 1 h away from Khon Kaen. There, I visited Phra That Na Dun, an important pilgrimage site among Buddhists. Next, I reached Roi Et provincial town, which is around 35 min away from Maha Sarakham. There I visited the famous Wat Burapha Phiram, followed by a brief visit to a nearby park. Finally, I headed to Kalasin, which is 1-h away from Roi Et. The province is famous for the largest fossil museum in South-East Asia. At last, I came back to Khon Kaen, which is around 1 h away from Kalasin.
Highlights of the Day
- Phra That Na Dun
- Wat Burapha Phiram
- Sirindhorn Museum
Phra That Na Dun in Mahasarakham Province
I walked to Khon Kaen bus station from the hotel at around 7 AM, had some tropical fruits for breakfast, and boarded a bus to Maha Sarakham provincial town. I reached the town at around 8 AM and there, I bargained with a tuk-tuk driver at the bus station for ฿100 round-trip. He took me to Phra That Na Dun, an important pilgrimage site among Buddhists, located 70 km south of Maha Sarakham provincial town. It took me 1 h to reach there. The site houses a relic of Buddha. There is a replica of an ancient Isaan village very close to the site, which helped me understand the cultural root of the area.
Wat Burapha Phiram in Roi Et Province
The tuk-tuk dropped me back to Maha Sarakham bus station from where I took a minivan to Roi Et bus terminal. I reached there at around 12 PM. Wat Burapha Phiram is one of the most important temples of the province. It is located right in the town center, just 3 km away from the bus station and a tuk-tuk can easily drop you there for just ฿30 one way. The royal temple is filled with typical temple buildings and statues and its main highlight is the standing Buddha image that flashes from a distance. It is known as Phra Phuttha Rattana Mongkhon Mahamuni.
Sirindhorn Museum in Kalasin Province
After having lunch – steamed rice with stir-fried vegetables with basil and chili sauce – at one of the small eateries in Roi Et bus station, I headed to Kalasin by a bus. On reaching there, I talked to a tuk-tuk who agreed to take me to the Sirindhorn Museum for ฿200 round-trip. The museum is located 40-min north of the provincial town. I reached there at around 3 PM.
The museum was formerly known as Phu Kum Khao Fossil Research Center. It is the complete and largest fossil museum and research center in South East Asia. The museum is open from 9 AM to 5 PM daily except on Mondays. The entrance fee is ฿100 for foreigners, but ฿40 for locals.
The museum comprises of 8 exhibition zones:
- The origin of the Earth and Universe – Zone 1: all about the big bang and the creation of the universe and planets
- The origin of the living things – Zone 2: time scale to see how life began and evolved throughout time
- Paleozoic era – Zone 3: origin of life as water creatures within this era and evolution into land reptiles
- Mesozoic era – Zone 4: origin and evolution of dinosaurs
- Dinosaurs in Thailand – Zone 5: dinosaurs that were native to Thailand, including the discovery of the oldest Sauropod, around 209 million years old
- Bring life to dinosaur – Zone 6: the largest dinosaur fossil collection in South-East Asia, as well as a laboratory that is used for research into the fossils and bones
- Cenozoic era – Zone 7: evolution of 65 million year-old mammals into modern day mammals
- Human being – Zone 8: evolution of humans
It was an amazing experience visiting a dinosaur museum in Thailand. It was 5 PM. There are many eating options outside the museum, where I sold out for a delicious plate of papaya salad. Then I headed back to Kalasin bus station by the same tuk-tuk. Then, from there, I took another bus to Khon Kaen bus terminal. Finally, I walked back to Saen Samran hotel to enjoy a peaceful sleep on my last evening in Khon Kaen.
NET EXPENSE FOR 1 PERSON (IN THB)
Let us have a look at the expenses of Days 10-12 in Thailand – Khon Kaen.
- Bus from Mukdahan to Khon Kaen: 200
- Stay at Saen Samran (3 nights): 750
- Getting Around: 60
- Round-trip to Khon Kaen and Chaiyaphum: 140
- Round-trip to Pa Hin Ngam from Chaiyaphum: 300
- Maha Sarakham-Roi Et-Kalasin from Khon Kaen: 200
- Round-trip to Phra That Na Dun from Maha Sarakham: 100
- Round-trip to Sirindhorn Museum from Kalasin: 200
- Entrance fee of Pa Hin Ngam National Park: 100
- Entrance Fee to Sirindhorn Museum: 100
- Food and miscellaneous: 300
Total expense (roughly): 2,450 THB
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What a lovely region of Thailand, I have not visited that area yet. The Tawanthong Vegetarian Restaurant caught my eye – samosas and spring rolls and the prices are very good. The Lake looks very peaceful and perfect for enjoying few hours in nature. I must say Thailand has the best night markets.
I would love to eat there, again.
Really looks like you managed to explore quite a lot of Thailand. Thailand is so beautiful even beyond the beaches. I have been to Thailand but feel like I didnt get to explore as much as you did as I went straight for the beaches.
I love the details of the temple, it is so beautiful. Hopefully I can visit Thailand someday and see all the beautiful temples and taste their amazing cuisine
The architecture and the food – oh yes!
Thailand is more than just beaches.
I need to explore more of Thailand. So far I’ve only been to Bangkok and there’s soooo much left to see! The pictures of the Pa Hin Ngam naional park are amazing and that temple in Khon Kaen looks so fascinating!
Thanks, Val.
Sounds like you’ve explored a lot of Thailand, and this looks like a lovely part of it. I love the idea of going to the Ton Tann Market, sounds more authentic and worth the trip out. The photo of those crazy rock formations is amazing.
Yes, Ton Tann is a must-visit.
Any place where I can get a good run or walk around a lake is worth a visit, but I am totally impressed with the natural rock formations and the facades of the temples. I can see myself checking out this area. 🙂
Oh yes!
Wow so much to see! I’ve been to Thailand but missed these locations. Would love to go back and see more of Thailand like the places you mentioned. The rock formations look insane!
Insane, indeed.
Your blog post reinforces how much more of Thanland we need to visit. Khon Kaen certainly looks like it has lots to offer for everyone. The temples in Thailand are always a big draw with their gold Buddha statues. But I must admit that water draws me in. It would be fun to rent a bike to ride around the lake. Pa Hin Ngam looks stunning during the day and night.
It’s lovely to see a side of Thailand that we don’t see very often! Bueang Kaen Nakhon Lake and the night market look amazing for a day out and that dinosaur museum looks pretty cool!
Yes, overall, it’s a nice place.
Agree with you.
Largely undiscovered part of Thailand…with impressive temples and delicious markets. I love that Tontann Night Market!
That night market is lit!
I’ll admit that I didn’t know much about the Isaan region of Thailand before. I’d love to see Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon, spend time at Bueang Kaen Nakhon Lake (it looks so peaceful) and visit Phra Phuttha Rattana Mongkhon Mahamuni (wow!!).
Nice to know.
Wonderfully detailed itinerary to help anyone inclined to travel here. You’ve highlighted several attractions I would be interested in seeing — especially the Pa Hin Ngam park (love those stone formations!) and the Ton Tann night market. Thanks for information about good food to try as well!
That’s great to know, Tami.
I love northern Thailand but have not traveled too much beyond Chiang Mai. I’m definitively adding Khon Kaen to our travel itinerary for our next Thai trip. The standing Buddha is impressive. Wow! This is a great itinerary and very accessible. Thanks for the introduction to this lesser known side of Thailand.
Khon Kaen is interesting.
The temples look quite amazing, remind me a lot of the Lan Na styled work that I found in North Thailand. Am quite intrigued by the national park. Those rocks look quite phenomenal. I like the way you have enumerated it all – makes it easy to plan your own itinerary.
Wow, you know about Lanna!
I love Thailand and did spend some time there. However, I’d like to return to explore more of it – actually, I haven’t been to any of the places you are introducing so this post is really inspiring for me. I’m particularly impressed by the Phra Phuttha Rattana Mongkhon Mahamuni.
That’s so beautiful, indeed.
Haven’t been to Thailand yet. Sounds like a lot to cover in three days. You seem to have explored the area well. Your itinerary looks like an ideal way to explore Khon Kaen. The forest of stones looks awesome!
Thanks.
I had never heard of this place before, but it looks and sounds amazing. It is lovely to see some of these lesser known areas of Thailand in the spotlight! I would love to visit here, the combination of nature and culture is exactly what I love. And knowing there will be good vegan and vegetarian food is even better! The fossil museum sounds very interesting too, I haven’t seen any museums like it in Southeast Asia.
Yes, these are pretty amazing.
I haven’t heard of Isaan Thailand. I’ve been to Bangkok and it’s nice to know other off the beaten path places in Thailand!
Yes, true.
This region of Thailand is new to me but it looks like it has it all! The night market looks so unique and I am sure there was some great food to be had. I love going to a museum with a dinasoar exhibit. The one in London is amazing.
Oh, wow.
This local Thai food looks really tasty. I would like to try these delicacies. Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon is amazing. A really beautiful piece of architecture. I hope that one day I will go to Thailand and see it with my own eyes.
Yes, sure.
Have really been enjoying reading your posts about the Isaan region of Thailand. Khon Kaen looks like a great place to visit, I’m particularly drawn to the food as I’ve enjoyed Isaan dishes whenever I’ve encountered them. Bueang Kaen Nakhon Lake also looks beautiful.
There are more!
I never knew about the Isaan region of Thailand, but reading your posts really made me inquisitive for this region. I would love to visit the important temple site of Khon Kaen which is the 80-m-high Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon. It would be interesting to see Buddhist relics, meditation hall, scripture library, viewpoint, and a important symbol of Khon Kaen. Being vegetarian I would also go to Tawanthong Vegetarian Food Restaurant and it is good that it is closeby.
Yukti, if you ever visit Thailand, spend some time in the Isaan.
So jealous you got to visit this region of Thailand! I’m always impressed by the grandeur of palaces in Thailand, no matter how rural the area. That’s really interesting that Bueang Kaen Nakhon Lake is reminiscent of Hanoi, and the rocks in Pa Hin Ngam National Park are really stunning. Glad you enjoyed your trip and thanks for sharing, Shreya!
I am glad you liked it, Kevin.
You really explore hidden gems of Thailand like locals and even a Thai people could not give so much detailed information like you. I am really impressed by Thailand’s temple as there are so many in all parts and your blog posts have changed my impression for Thailand as I always used to think as best for beaches nightlife and shopping. The temple really looks great and stunning as Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon is considered as a royal-grade temple in Khon Kaen. Good to know it can be spotted from anywhere as it built on raised platforms.
Absolutely yes, Yukti.
I love night markets. It is one way for me to discover the place as locals. It is very interesting to enjoy their food and a great way to find and discover unique and great finds.
Your post made me crave for Pad Thai. It has been a while since I enjoyed an authentic one.
I am planning to have Pad Thai, right now.
I really like your Thailand posts. They are always in details. I had no idea about Nakhon Ratchasima in Thailand. Not many people know about it. Its definitely an offbeat destination. I am glad that you have given such details. I loved the giant rock formations in PA HIN NGAM NATIONAL PARK. Its quite interesting to look at. I am bookmarking this place for my next Thailand visit.
Oh yes, you must visit the place.
The temple looks great. Being a vegetarian I am always on a lookout of vegetarian restaurants. Tawanthong Vegetarian Food seems like a good option. I am a fan of open style kitchen. so, this would be perfect.
Yes Archana.
I love Thailand, such an amazing country. The vegetarian food at Tawanthong Vegetarian food looks great. i love trying out local cuisine whenever I’m abroad!
That’s lovely to know.