20 Provinces of Isaan Thailand in 20 Days – Day 16
Isaan – North-Eastern Thailand, the least touristy region of Thailand – is so beautiful and has left me amazed for the last 15 days. I have been to Nakhon Ratchasima, Ubon Ratchathani, Mukdahan, Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, and other neighboring provinces. Next, I headed to Loei and Nong Khai. These North-Eastern provinces are bordered from Laos by the mighty Mekong river. Both Chiang Khan and Pak Chom are riverside towns in Loei, which are worth visiting for outstanding Mekong riverside resorts. While many tourists flock to Chiang Khan, I preferred to spend my day in Pak Chom, a more sleepy and remote riverside-town located 70 km east of Chiang Khan, which ensured rustic relaxation next to the nature.
Highlights of the Day
- Udon Thani to Pak Chom
- Leisure at Mekong Riverside Resort and Camping
Udon Thani to Pak Chom
I checked out from the hotel in Udon Thani, took a songthaew to Bus Station No. 2, and got a ticket for the 9.30 AM bus to Loei. Bus had air-con, comfortable seats, not a lot of leg space but manageable – it had no toilet. It took 2.5 hours to reach Loei including one stop for toilet and refreshment on the way. I had some vegetarian Thai curry with rice as lunch on the way where the bus had stopped. Blue-colored minibuses run from Loei bus station to Pak Chom. They look like wooden songthaew. It took 2 hours to reach Pak Chom bus terminal.
I already booked a room in advance at Mekong Riverside Resort and Camping. Mike, a Canadian guy, and his Thai wife, Ben are the owners of the resort. When I was about to reach Pak Chom bus terminal, I called up Mike and he came to the bus station to pick me up. I reached Pak Chom bus station at 2.30 PM and in 15 min, I reached the resort – thanks to Mike!
Mekong Riverside Resort and Camping
I was happily welcomed by Jennie – the mommy dog – and Morgan – Jennie’s son. They were so excited to have me there.
The place is a modern stylish boutique resort in a quiet natural setting on the banks of the Mekong river. Laos is located on the other side of the river. The resort also has a campground. Mike helps in cleaning and managing the place while Ben cooks food for the guests and also manages the place. They have a very personal approach to take care of the guests, which impressed me a lot. After a little cuddling session with Jennie and Morgan, I was shown my room – room 101.
The resort offers a sunset boating tour but I chose to just relax. Also, the boating tour is more meaningful when the river water is high during the rainy and post rainy season. Instead, I enjoyed the sunset right from the huge resort campground. Later, I had some playtime with Jennie and Morgan.
I had mentioned Ben while booking that I am a vegan, and she took care of that nicely. She cooked hot vegan Masamman Curry with potatoes, carrots, peanuts, and coconut milk in it. She served it with roti and jasmine rice. It was very delicious. I had our dinner while enjoying the sunset – it was a paradise.
When it was dark, I got busy playing with Jennie and Morgan again. After a while, I crashed on the comfortable bed and fell asleep right away.
20 Provinces of Isaan Thailand in 20 Days – Day 17
I highly recommend to stay in this resort for at least 2 nights. It is unfair to leave this beautiful place in a day, but I had plans to head to Nong Khai. Nong Khai is a small border town in the far north-east of Thailand. The first Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge was constructed here across the Mekong river connecting Nong Khai (Thailand) and Thanaleng (Laos) on the other side. Not only a border town, but Nong Khai is also a riverside paradise. It is a very cool place to chill for a night or two before or after you cross the Laos border. Even though I was not crossing any border, still I booked a beautiful riverside guesthouse in advance to spend a night there.
Highlights of the Day
- Checking Out at Mekong Riverside Resort & Camping
- Pak Chom to Nong Khai
- Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse
Bye Bye Mekong Riverside Resort & Camping
The morning mists and the expansive view of the unspoiled river wetlands from the room wished me a very good morning.
Ben cooked some Western breakfast – a cup of green tea, hot brown bread toasts with scrambled tofu served with a bowl of freshly cut apples and a glass of orange juice. It was a lovely and tummy-filling breakfast. I had a beautiful and memorable time at the resort. I truly relaxed and unwinded in the tranquil scenic setting of the resort. It is a perfect location to explore all this wonderful area has to offer. It was difficult to leave such an amazing site and say goodbye to Jennie and Morgan – but I had to do it.
Pak Chom to Nong Khai
Mike dropped me at the bus terminal at around 10-ish and the minibus departed at 10.15 AM. The exhilarating view of the minibus journey was so photogenic and memorable. I reached Loei at around 12.30 PM. I grabbed a plate of delicious Pad Thai from Big C that is located few meters away from the Loei bus terminal. Shortly, I got a bus to Nong Khai that took around 3 h to reach the bus station. From there, I took a tuktuk to the guesthouse I had booked in advance for only 30 ฿.
Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse
Julian is an excellent host, always with a smile. He would prefer you to contact him personally through e-mail or phone for booking rather than booking through online agency.
Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse offers clean and inexpensive rooms of different types that would suit your taste. There are simple single rooms with fan and also family room with aircon, hot shower, and also a balcony overlooking the Mekong river. I got a single room with fan for ฿350 per night. I booked for 2 nights. The restaurant provides the most delicious food in Nong Khai, catering both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options.
Lisa, one of the owners of this guesthouse, has an art gallery nearby. You can also practice yoga, meditation, reiki, and astrology from Beatrix and Pancho – the professional yoga masters. Moreover, you can also enjoy the facilities of massage, personal fitness training, well-stocked bookshop, and a floating live music bar.
What To Do in the Evening?
At 5 PM every evening, there is a sunset boat cruise leaving from the temple next door. You can either choose that or just witness one of the most beautiful sunsets from the riverside guesthouse. I loved my own time in the evening in this pretty riverside place.
20 Provinces of Isaan Thailand in 20 Days – Day 18
There are few interesting sights to explore in Nong Khai. I had a nice fruit platter for brunch at the guesthouse before I headed to the sightseeing tour of Nong Khai. Julian arranged a tuk-tuk for me for ฿200. The driver took me to a Buddhist temple, a market, and an interesting sculpture park. I have visited a similar sculpture park in Laos which is on the other side of Nong Khai. However, and I heard this one in Thailand is good too – hence I did not want to miss this one. The Buddhist temple of Nong Khai is also a popular one and the border market is unmissable.
Highlights of the Day
- Sala Keoku
- Wat Pho Chai
- Tha-Sadet Market on the way back
Sala Keoku
I left the guesthouse at around 1 PM. The park is situated around 6 km away. The tuk-tuk took me there within just few minutes. However, I took at least 2 hour’s time to explore this mysterious park.
Sala Keoku is considered to be one of the most extraordinary creations of South-East Asia. It contains more than a hundred dazzling sculptures that rise more than seven stories high. The sculptures are inspired from a wide range of ancient beliefs, including animist folklore, Hindu mythology, and Buddhist traditionalism.
You have to pay a mere fee of ฿20 as an entrance fee of the park. The park opens at 6 AM and closes at 6 PM.
The park was made by Luang Pu Bounleua Sulilat, a Lao man who spent most of his early years gaining mystical knowledge from an abstinent hermit named Keoku, who lived in a cave in Laos. He actually started the park in Laos, which still exists on the other side of the border – it is called Buddha Park or Xieng Khuan. Due to Communist rule in Laos, he was forced to abandon that park, but in Thailand, he created a similar park called Sala Keuko – this one is more carefully maintained and looks more complete. I liked this one more than Xieng Khuan.
Wat Pho Chai
Next, the tuk-tuk stopped at the holiest temple of Nong Khai. It hosts a large Lan Xang-era bronze Buddha image with a solid gold head and embedded with precious stones.
Tha Sadet Market
On the way back, the tuk-tuk stopped by the popular Thai-Laos border market by the Mekong river. Tha Sadet Market. Sadly I do not have photos – out of battery, err! You must visit the market anytime between 7 AM to 6.30 PM. You will find varieties of products from Indochina and East Europe, including dried food, processed food, home appliances, utensils, etc.
Chilling in the Evening at the Riverside
I was back to the guesthouse by 5 PM. I was tempting for some yummy dinner, so asked Julian what’s special. He recommended me the tofu and aubergine curry with hot jasmine rice. I enjoyed a lovely dinner at the most beautiful Mekong riverside guesthouse. After exploring so many places followed by such wonderful food, I did not take much time to sleep off.
NET EXPENSE FOR 1 PERSON (IN THB)
Let us have a look at the expenses of Days 16-18 in Thailand – Loei and Nong Khai.
- Bus from Udon Thani to Loei: 125
- Round-Trip to Pak Chom from Loei: 60
- Stay at Mekong Riverside Resort & Camping (1 night): 1200
- Bus from Loei to Nong Khai: 125
- Stay at Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse (2 nights): 1000
- Getting Around in Nong Khai: 30
- Sightseeing in Nong Khai: 200
- Entrance fee of Buddha Park: 20
- Food and miscellaneous: 400
Total expense (roughly): 3160 THB
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Amazing to read about such a lesser known place of Thailand. Haven’t read about this place lots. Love the way you make even the smallest of details known to the travellers. The pictures are so so good. They are getting better every time. The look and the feel of the blog is very good. Need to get this out to more people and let’s travel someplace soon. It’s been long. Love
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20 provinces in 20 days? wow that’s a packed itinerary. I have only been to Chiang Mai, Bangkok, and Pai and all in one month and I feel like it’s not enough. Thailand is indeed a very beautiful country, with a whole lot always left to explore. I envy you for seeing these spots.
You can visit more of them virtually through my blogs.
Wow that is so nice that Mike picked you up and Ben was considerate of your food preferences when cooking for you. That is service! Also, love the room and the place looks so serene 🙂
Yes, they were great hosts.
Your experience with the lesser known areas of Thailand makes me wish I would have explored beyond the touristy area of Phuket! I love the tropical sunsets you captured and the uniquely ornate sculptures are unlike any I’ve come across before. I’m intrigued by this destination for myself!
You must visit Mekong riverside once, Shane.
I really like the fact that you write detailed itineraries and devote a complete post to one place. It’s useful for travellers like us who are looking for relevant details. How was the bus condition? We’re the seats comfortable? It was really thoughtful of Mike to come and pick you up. It can get overwhelming to find a location all by yourself.
The bus was comfortable.
I visited Thailand many times but never knew of these places ! Particularly like the Sala Keoku ! The sculptures look really interesting ! Definitely wanna check them out !
Oh you must, Jeremy.
Your photos are so lovely! I can’t believe that there was no toilet on the bus ride – 2.5 hours is quite a while to have to hold it. Yikes!! I would definitely be up for the sunset cruise at night. Such a great place to stay and explore for a bit!!
Glad!
Wow, the sculptures of Sala Keoku look incredible! And any experience where you get time with two cute dogs is even better!
Yes, it was a great memory.
Wow this post is incredibly descriptive….which will come in handy for when we go to Thailand! Thank you!
Always welcome, Sam.
I love the Mekong river and this lush green trees. I admired it during my trip to Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia. I didn’t know the place you described, Mekong Riverside Resort. It looks so exciting! I would love to experience a sunset boat cruise and chill on the hammock. I would also like to see The Buddhist temple of Nong Khai because, during my trip, I ran out of time for this place. The sculptures look beautiful. Significantly, you share expenses; it’s so helpful for trip planning!
I am glad that you found it helpful.
I really cant wait to get out to Thailand and see places off the beaten track and get to the Mekong river. I love to check out the Nong Khai temple, I havent visited many in Asia but I would love to check this one out. I love the charmer and peacefulness of temples and I am sure this no different. Thank you for giving me more ideas for my Thailand trip.
I am glad.
Nice! I would live to travel to Mekong river one day… never been even close to reach it though. The resort looks quite chill, a place where I would stay after a long challenging trip.
Yes, it’s really relaxing.
I haven’t been back to Thailand in years. I went when I was a little girl and it was only to the big cities. I would love to venture here and see more of the off beaten path. When I was in South East Asia recently, I found that Thailand was full of European tourists looking to party, but based on your post, I think there are still places not touched by these folks!
Yes, true.
This is a part of the world I really want to visit. A sunset boat cruise sounds like a perfect way to finish the day. Or maybe even catch it from a hammock. Sala Keoku looks stunning with the vast number of statues it houses. So much variety. And so many of them have such playful faces or poses. Looks like a great few days. And your accommodations seemed perfect for this trip.
You must visit this beautiful place, Linda.
I travelled along the Mekong Delta in Vietnam but I wish that I had done so in Thailand. The trip sounds fabulous and I love the photos of what you saw.
Glad you liked that.
I visited Pai last year and it’s one of the less touristy places in Thailand too. I liked it a lot more than Chiang Mai or the other big cities. I’ll definitely have to look into north-eastern Thailand more as I’m all about those unspoilt views in nature. A sunset boating tour sounds amazing!
The sunset boat tour is a highlight.
Mekong Riverside Resort & Camping sounds fabulous. It doesn’t get much better than being greated by dogs! I love the grounds and how the rooms are secluded. The views at Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse are amazing. I would love to relax in the garden and watch the sunset. The sculptures at Sala Keoku are fantastic, I could spend hours taking photos there
Yes, the place is so photographic.
Unfortunately I didn’t get to make my way to the Mekong River when I visited Thailand. I’m even more disappointed after reading your post! I have to say I’d love to go on the sunset boating tour but I can understand why on both occasions you decided to chill. Chilling at the Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse looks really tranquil
The guesthouse was lit.
Wow what an incredible experience! I would love to have a chance to explore more of Thailand one day. I’ve only been to Bangkok and Phuket but so far Thailand is my favourite country in Asia. Love reading about your adventure and love those stunning photos .
Thanks Ada.
This trip looks fantastic! Although I have never been to Thailand, all these photos make me want to go! I would love to try the sunset curise or even the Nong Khai temple.
You must visit Emily.
So beautiful! I visited Bangkok last year and didn’t enjoy it as much as I thought. I wish I ventured more outside of the city, and visited a few unknown towns and villages that are a bit off the beaten path like Loei. Sala Keoku seems like such a cool place to enjoy some history and culture too!
Thanks Daisy.
I haven’t been to this region of the world for almost a decade now, and you’re seriously making we want to go back! I’ve always been a fan of the lesser known spots in Thailand, and you’ve done a nice a nice job of brining my attention to more!
It’s really nice, Christopher.
Wow! Looks like an amazing trip! I haven´t been to Thailand but I have come to understand, that there is so much to see there. I would love to be able to visit several different regions just to get a more deeply picture of the country. So many times the trips are only done to most popular and touristy areas. By the way, Vegan Masamman Curry looks amazing!
Thai food is so delicious!
A bus ride through all that greenery sounds just awesome! Its really nice of them to pick you up from the bus-station. The resort looks so intertwined with nature! Its always nice to stay with such small hotels, the service is really personally and we’re very well taken care of, including things like special food requirements. The veg curry looks delicious!
P.S: Jennie and Morgan are super adorable!
Jennie and Morgan are super-cute.
I love the details you include in the post – it made me feel as if I was there too. I was looking at the pictures too and Pak Chom looks so serene, I would have chosen to go where less tourists are as well. The Mekong Riverside resort looks modern and comfortable and the massaman curry looks super delicious too. I will keep in mind the place for a stay.
Yes Adele, you should. You will like it.
Seems like an interesting journey through the provinces of Thailand. Good to know about the the facilities and comforts of Mekong Riverside Resort and Camping. Good reason not to go for sunset boat tour, I too would prefer to spend time in such a wonderful resort. Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse seems equally good. Wonderful experience for you.
Yes, it was a great experience Indrani.
The road to Pak Chom looks great. Mekong Riverside Resort and Camping looks like a rustic place, lapped up by nature. Te sculptures at Sala Keoku look amazing. I dint know about this place. Wheel of Life is nice. The dinner looks great.
It was a great experience, overall.
Good to see some the least touristy region of North-Eastern Thailand, which looks very beautiful as I always see the over touristic destinations of Thailand in other posts. Never knew about Nakhon Ratchasima, Ubon Ratchathani, Mukdahan, Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, and other neighboring provinces but as they are bordered with mighty Mekong river, they are blessed with wonderful nature. The way to Pak Chom is a beautiful road drive.
Once you are here and have time, you can explore these places.
Having seen the Mekong River in Vietnam, it’s interesting to see what kind of activities and attractions there are much further upstream in Thailand. The resort looks so relaxing with modern amenities. I would have a hard time deciding between just relaxing on shore or going on the sunset boat tour!
Great to know that you love the place.