20 Provinces of Isaan Thailand in 20 Days – Day 1
Have you ever heard of the Isaan? Isaan is the north-east region of Thailand, which is an often overlooked part of the country. Tourists do not flock there much as they do elsewhere in Thailand. Isaan does not have cosmopolitan, sleepless cities like Central Thailand. Isaan does not have cool, green mountains like North Thailand. It also does not have any coastline or beaches like South Thailand. Then why should you travel here? Isaan is a multicultural area where Laos, Cambodia, and Thailand meet, and it has a rich history. It offers beautiful views over the Mekong river, historical ruins, magnificent temples, delicious Isaan food, and extraordinarily friendly locals. Isaan is surely non-touristy, it is offbeat, it is the real authentic Thailand. Nakhon Ratchasima, better known as Korat, is a dynamic gateway to Isaan region. I spent few nights here before traveling deep into the Isaan.
Highlights of the Day
- Srivichai Hotel
- Ya Mo Monument
- City Gates
- Historical City Center
- Wat Phayap
- Wat Sala Loi
- Terminal 21
- Save One Night Market
- Tiger Is Coming Beer & Eatery
How to Get to Nakhon Ratchasima?
There are three ways to get to Nakhon Ratchasima from Bangkok.
- You can take a train from Hua Lamphong Railway Station that cost around ฿150 and takes about 6 hours. It offers the best scenic views.
- You either take a bus from Mochit Northern Bus Terminal that cost around ฿200 and takes about 4 hours. It is the most convenient.
- You can take a minivan from Mochit Northern Bus Terminal that cost around ฿200 and takes about 3 hours. It is the fastest.
How to Get Around in Nakhon Ratchasima?
There are many ways to get around Korat. The cheapest way is surely taking a songthaew almost anywhere in the city for only ฿8 per person. I took one from the bus station to the hotel. There are also taxis, tuk-tuks, and motorbike taxis plying in the city. You can also book a Grab, the South-East Asian version of Uber, by downloading its app in your phone.
Where to Stay in Nakhon Ratchasima?
You must stay in the city center to experience Korat in the best way. I stayed in Srivichai Hotel, which is located in the center of all actions in Korat.
What to See in Nakhon Ratchasima?
Korat is the second largest city in Thailand, after Bangkok. It offers a number of historical, cultural, and natural attractions, as well as a great number of Buddhist temples. It took me 5-6 h to explore the main sites.
1. Thao Suranaree (Ya Mo) Monument
The main attraction in Korat is centered around the legendary heroine Ya Mo, meaning “Grandmother Mo”. She became famous in the early 19th century by organizing a successful prisoner revolt against the Laotian captors. There are many versions of the legend. The one that I found interesting is that she lured the Laotian soldiers and then the Thai men launched a surprise attack and saved the city. After the dust settled, the King bestowed the honorific title, Thao Suranaree, on Ya Mo. Her heroism symbolizes Korat’s proud identity.
2. Korat City Gates
Many years ago, the old city of Korat used to be surrounded by walls and a moat with four gates leading inside. Today, only one of the four gates called Chumphon Gate is still in its original state, while the others have been renovated. It is found very close to the Thao Suranaree monument.
3. Historical City Center
The city center of Korat surrounding the Thao Suranaree Monument is nicely designed with historical structures and touristic attractions.
4. Wat Phayap
Among the many temples in Korat, Wat Phayap is worth a visit to check out the interesting man-made cave. The abbot of the temple created this by plastering stalactites, stalagmites, and other incredible rocks that he rescued from a quarry to a concrete frame. The shrine looks like no other.
5. Wat Sala Loi
Another important temple in Korat is the one established by Korat’s wonder-woman Ya Mo, called Wat Sala Loi. A small stupa inside the temple houses part of her ashes. It is known as the “Temple of Floating Pavilions” because of its design. You can easily reach there by a songthaew.
6. Terminal 21 Mall
I am not much a mall-person. However, I love spending time in Terminal 21 in Bangkok. That is mainly because of its awesome design concepts as it replicates an airport terminal, with each floor themed on different destinations around the world. Even the bathrooms are custom-themed, and the toilets are an attraction in themselves. So I could not hold my excitement knowing that even Korat features Terminal 21. The additional attraction is the free observation tower, which offers the best views of Korat from above. I took a motorbike taxi from Wat Sala Loi to here for ฿40.
7. Save One Night Market
In Thailand, I found Chatuchak Weekend Market in Bangkok to be the largest one with thousands of stalls selling almost every type of item you can imagine of. However, Save One Market in Korat is a real competition to Chatuchak Weekend Market. It is equally gigantic with thousands of stalls and a huge food court. It is 7 km away from from the city center. Taxi cost me around ฿60.
What to Eat as Vegan in Nakhon Ratchasima?
Isaan Thai food is renowned for its spicy chilies and I love the flavor. I am a vegan and I have got few options for you to eat in Nakhon Ratchasima in case you care for your health, environment, and animal welfare too.
1. Mingter Vegetarian Restaurant
This is a very popular vegetarian restaurant located right across the road from Ya Mo Monument. You can either choose rice and a selection of hot dishes from the front of the shop or a noodle dish. They can also cook something from the limited menu that they have.
2. Jay Guanjin Vegetarian Restaurant
This vegan restaurant is located within 100 m of the hotel I was staying at. I went there multiple times during my stay in Korat. They have a wide selection of hot dishes that are served with brown rice, and also have a choice of noodle dishes. The food is very delicious, and a combination of two sides with brown rice do not cost more than ฿50.
3. Vegan Food at Save One Night Market
Save One Night Market is the biggest night market in the Isaan region and offers a wide range of food options.
Where to Have a Nightlife in Nakhon Ratchasima?
There are quite a few bars and nightclubs in Korat. For tasting good quality of beer, I will surely recommend Tiger is Coming Beer & Eatery. It is a restaurant and a beer bar that has craft beer imported from 20 countries around the world or over 400 labels. The place is decorated in Loft Industrial style with tables and chairs from old wood. It was just next to Srivichai Hotel where I was staying. I did not mind spending some time there before walking up to my room in the next building.
20 Provinces of Isaan Thailand in 20 Days – Day 2
When in Nakhon Ratchasima, you must visit Thailand’s first national park – Khao Yai National Park. It is also recognized as the National Park Heritage of Asian Group Countries. The park covers an area of more than 2,000 sq. m. It stretches over four provinces, such as Saraburi, Prachinburi, Nakhon Nayok, and Nakhon Ratchasima. The park is a mixture of rainforest, grasslands, and wide plains. It holds a wide variety of flora and fauna. It is usually popular for bird and butterfly watching, animal watching, and trekking. Diverse creatures like elephants, gibbons, monkeys, bears, etc. along with many species of birds, insects, and reptiles live here. Also, interesting trees, plants, and flowers grow throughout the park.
Highlights of the Day
- Khao Yai National Park Day Trip
From Nakhon Ratchasima to Pak Chong
Pak Chong is a small town located close to Khao Yai National Park in Nakhon Ratchasima province. It is easily accessible by bus or train or van or even taxi from Korat. Buses ply almost every 30 min from Bus Terminal 1, which was just 5 min walk away from the hotel. I got a bus ticket for ฿60 and took around 1.5 h to reach. I kept fruits handy for my bus journey.
How to Explore Khao Yai National Park?
The best way to explore this park is to book a day tour with one of the guesthouses in Pak Chong. They offer organized group tours to the national park along with guide along with free pick up and drop from and to railway/bus station of Pak Chong. It is not necessary to stay at the guesthouse though.
I booked the national park tour with Bobby’s Apartment and Jungle Tours for ฿1,500 per person. The price includes the entrance fee into Khao Yai National Park (which is 400 ฿/adult and 200 ฿/child), transport, tour guide, leech socks, and raincoat if needed. The tour also includes lunch at a park restaurant near the waterfalls, drinking water, fruits, and snacks.
You can also decide to stay in the national park and get a guide from there and explore the jungle. In that case, you have to arrange for your own transport from Pak Chong to the national park. There are public minibuses that goes to the gate of the national park from Pak Chong.
Khao Yai National Park Tour – The Beginning
The driver from Bobby’s Apartment and Jungle Tours picked me up from the bus station and took me to the apartment where we met others who will join the tour. Then we left together for exploring the national park, yayy!
Khao Yai National Park Tour – The Trekking
Our lovely guide – Anon – took us to a part of the evergreen forest from where we started our hiking that continued for around 3 hours.
Khao Yai National Park Tour – The Ending
I had hot rice with sweet and sour vegetables for lunch at a restaurant near the parking area of the waterfall site.
After this, we walked to the car which was parked a few meters away from the watch tower. Then we headed to the waterfall for lunch – all of us were hungry. Though I must mention that Anon offered us little snacks like wafers while we were hiking through the forest.
When we were back to our car, we found fresh watermelons arranged for us – thanks to the driver! It was already 7 PM when I was dropped to the bus station, from where I took the bus back to Nakhon Ratchasima. Hotel was in walking distance from Bus Terminal 1, so it did not take long for me to reach the hotel and bump on to the bed for a goodnight’s sleep.
20 Provinces of Isaan Thailand in 20 Days – Day 3
Besides Khao Yai National Park, the other important sites around Nakhon Ratchasima are the Khmer Ruins that are dotted all over the southern Isaan region. If you are a historical buff and a fan of Angkor Wat-style architecture, will surely admire this tour. The main sites to be covered are Phimai Historical Park (Nakhon Ratchasima province), Phanom Rung National Park (Buriram province), and Prasat Ta Muean (Surin province). All these temples were built between 10th and 13th centuries during the reign of Angkor King Jayavarman VII on the ancient route from Angkor (the center of the ancient Khmer empire) to Phimai in Nakhon Ratchasima province. As all these places are spread out, the best way to explore is either book a taxi or rent a car or bike for the day.
Highlights of the Day
- Phimai Historical Park
- Phanom Rung Historical Park
- Prasat Ta Muean
Phimai Historical Park in Nakhon Ratchasima Province
Phimai Historical Park is the largest Khmer complex in Thailand. The temple represents Mahayana Buddhism and Hinduism as well. The entrance fee is ฿100 per person and I took around 2-3 h to visit the site.
Phanom Rung Historical Park in Buriram Province
Phanom Rung is the most impressive and significant Khmer complex in Thailand. It is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple was built on top of a an extinct volcano, which symbolizes Mount Kailash – a holy mountain in Hindu scriptures on top of which Lord Shiva lives. The temple is 2 h away from Phimai Historical Park. The entrance fee is ฿100 per person and I took around 2 h to visit the site.
Before visiting the temple, the driver took me to a small town called Nang Rong where we had lunch. Isaan vegan food cost me only ฿40.
Ta Muean Complex in Surin Province
Ta Muean Historical Complex consists of three separate temples – Ta Meuan, Ta Muean Tot, and Ta Muean Thom – Surin province. The temple complex is 1 h away from Phanom Rung Historical Park. There is no entrance fee and I took around 2 h to visit the site.
Kindly do not wander around the area as it was heavily mined during the Khmer Rouge days.
The first two temples are ordinary, but I was quite impressed with the third one as it is situated right on the Thailand-Cambodia border, in a no-man’s land. Here, you need to leave your ID (passport) with a Thai military checkpoint, and another ID of some sort is required at the actual entrance of the site. The site is guarded by a mix of Thai and Cambodian soldiers, who happily provide some information and pose for pictures.
The taxi took almost 3 h to reach back to Srivichai Hotel in Nakhon Ratchasima city from Ta Muean Temple Complex. It was almost 9 PM when I reached the hotel. I kept a lot of fruits like mangoes, rambutans, and mangosteens handy during the journey. It was certainly a long day. These 3 days summarized to be a good start of exploring Isaan region, and I could not be more excited looking forward to more Isaan adventures!
NET EXPENSE FOR 1 PERSON (IN THB)
Let us have a look at the expenses of Days 1-3 in Thailand – Nakhon Ratchasima.
- Bus from Phitsanulok to Nakhon Ratchasima: 326
- Stay at Srivichai Hotel (3 nights): 1,800
- Getting Around: 186
- Round-Trip to Pak Chong by Bus: 120
- Khao Yai National Park Tour: 1,500
- Khmer Ruin Trip by Taxi: 2,000
- Entrance Fee of Khmer Temples: 200
- Food and miscellaneous: 308
Total expense (roughly): 6,440 THB
For a more customized itinerary, whether for solo or couple or group of any number of people, feel free to contact me on Contact Us page.
If you are planning for a much-organized, tastefully-curated, stress-free yet exciting vacation, consider booking your holidays at Travel Love Repeat. It is going to be a treat for sure!
Wow, this looks like such a fun (and packed!) itinerary! I’d love to visit Khao Yai National Park – it sounds like your tour guide made your visit extra fun. I love your pics of all the wildlife you spotted!
Glad you liked them Carrie.
I really love all the public art you’ve featured! So many interesting deities and other figures 🙂 The Ta Muean complex looks really fascinating especially the Prasat Ta Muean Tot temple. I’d really love to visit Thailand soon, and will definitely keep Isaan in mind.
Thanks for considering Isaan.
Wow how have I never heard of Isaan?! You’re right, Phimai Historical Park looks so much like Angkor Wat, which makes sense both being Khmer. I just wish I’d found this sooner as I leave Thailand soon and don’t have time to visit. I guess I now have even more reason to come back. Thank you for introducing me to this wonderful part of Thailand.
Yes, these are unexplored parts of Thailand.
I love your detailed post and reporting everythiing with photos, that’s so helpful. I love to visit ancient temples and those sound really amazing!
You would love it here, Anita.
Had never heard of Isaan. But now that I have read about it I really fancy going there. And the complete guide that you have shared would make our planning easy. Great and comprehensive article. Loved the photographs.
There are more coming up about other places in Isaan.
Wow that is quite a lot of ground to conquer in just 20 days! Looks like such a rich cultural experience. I’m definitely the same type of traveler.
Keep following, more coming up!
I really appreciate that you chose to visit and write about a less touristy area of Thailand. I’ll be in Thailand next fall for a conference and was also hoping to get to visit some less popular parts of the country, so this post is just perfect.
Yes, I love Isaan.
Wat Phayap might be my favourite place. The trek of Khao Yai National Park is just splendid. I’d definitely do this when I visit Thailand.
Btw, I’m loving this series of your Chakrasana in various places. Pls, put up a separate blogpost of the compilation of these Chakrasanas!
Hahhaha sure Bhushavali, when I have done this almost everywhere, then I will, for sure.
I have traveled Thailand a lot. From the south to the north, from Thai islands to Golden Triangle. But I have never heard of Isan before! Thus, this post was so enlightening for me. It’s interesting how many hidden gems still can be found in Thailand! And, yes, the courtyard of Prasat Phimai looks like the Angkor Wat in Cambodia indeed!!
It’s super cool!
LOVE LOVE LOVE this post! It reminds me of one of my favorite cities in Thailand- Nakhon Si Thammarat! They look so similar and untouristy- which I love! And I had no idea there were temples in Thailand that looked similar to the Angor Wat! I wish we would have gone to see those in addition to the ones in Cambodia. These are such a hidden gem. Guess I need to go back!
Wow, very few people knows about Nakhon Si Thammarat. I am surprised that you know about it.
Wow, these trees at KHAO YAI. To be honest, it looks the most impressive. I have never been to any place like it.
You would love it here.
What a great adventure and the trek looked so much fun. At first I thought it was a huge snake strangling the tree, thank goodness it wasn’t and just the vines. This is an area of Thailand I have not visited. I am definitely adding this to our list for next time. The Phimai National Park monuments do look alot like Angkor Wat which I am visiting later on this year. Your photos really show the destination well. Thanks for sharing.
Yes, even I thought it’s a snake when I saw it.
That’s a nice 3-day itinerary, I loved how you squeezed so many things to do in just three days. I did a similar thing back in 2017 and your post brought back some really nice memories. Btw, the new design of the website looks really nice 🙂 keep up the great work
Hey, thanks Daniel.
I absolutely love your yoga poses in amazing locations! There was so much to take in with your trip. The bugs were crazy, the food looks amazing, and the macaques were awesome!
I am so glad that you liked it.
your post reminded me of my 4 days trip in Thailand. It is a really nice country with rich culture for every travelers to explore. Now thanks to your post, I know one more place in Thai to travel to in my next time visiting the country.
Yes, there are so many places here worth visiting.
Nakhon Ratchasima really looks interesting and as it is a hidden gem, your detailed guide is very helpful. Your first stop in the national park is really a very beautiful viewpoint. Even you have covered nearby sites like Phimai Historical Park (Nakhon Ratchasima province), Phanom Rung National Park (Buriram province), and Prasat Ta Muean (Surin province) which I think not even Thai people has not seen. This is really comprehensive 20 days tour and your Day 1 is also full of activities.
True that, Yukti.