20 Provinces of Isaan Thailand in 20 Days – Day 4
Ubon Ratchathani is one of the major cities of Isaan (North-eastern) region of Thailand. You can also call it “Royal City of the Lotus”. It is a large, capital city of the province of the same name – Ubon Ratchathani. Located along the Mekong river and sharing its border with Laos, the province features plateaus and mountain ranges. The city is located along the Moon river and possesses a very pleasant kind of eccentricity. During my Isaan journey, I spent my first 3 days in Nakhon Ratchasima while also exploring Buriram and Surin. My next destination was Ubon Ratchathani. However, I did not know that I would never run out of things to do here. Visitors usually use Ubon Ratchathani as a base to explore the surrounding area. But I bet that you will find a pleasant surprise if you stay here longer.
Highlights of the Day
- Train to Ubon Ratchathani
- 28 Rachabutr Hostel
- Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival
From Nakhon Ratchasima to Ubon Ratchathani
Buses and trains connect Ubon Ratchathani from Nakhon Ratchasima as well as Bangkok. I chose to take the train at 10.11 AM from Nakhon Ratchasima Train Station. A second-class air-conditioned seat costs around ฿483. However, there are other trains at cheaper rate but the time of this train was the most suitable for me. I did not have to wake up too early, I got time for breakfast which was basically fresh fruits from the market, I also managed to pack lunch, and then I took the songthaew from the hotel to the train station on time. The train ride was comfortable. I reached Ubon Ratchathani train station at around 2 PM.
28 Ratchabutr Hostel in Ubon Ratchathani
I was seeking for a centrally located hostel with a homestay vibe and great location. And I was really happy to find the charming 28 Rachbutr Hostel suiting my needs. This is the only place to stay in Ubon where you can relax on an open-air terrace while watching the river slide by. I got a single room next to the terrace with shared bathroom access for ฿750 for 3 nights.
I took a short nap in my room. Later in the evening, I wanted to explore the surroundings. Vanida, the owner of the hostel, told me that I must not miss the annual Candle Festival happening in Ubon Ratchathani. She asked me to head to Thung Si Muang Park which is just 10 min walk from the hostel. She also suggested me to visit the National Museum after that to experience the Ubon International Wax Festival. All were in walking distance.
Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival
Candle Festival is one of the biggest and most beautiful festivals of Thailand that takes place in Ubon Ratchathani. Locals observe the festival on two important days in Thailand. On the evening of Asahna Bucha Day or the Full Moon Day in July, there are cultural displays in and around the famous city park – Thung Si Muang Park. On the next day called Khao Phansa Day or Buddhist Lent Day, there is the main parade taking place. It marks the beginning of the rainy season retreat. During the next 3 months, monks retreat to the temples and refrain away from their surroundings.
After I returned to the hostel, I told Vanida how exciting I felt. I have never seen such huge wax candle sculptures before in my life. She was really helpful. She gave me some good tips to witness the Candle Festival Procession the following morning. I went to sleep early so that I can wake up on time. I did not want to miss any of it.
20 Provinces of Isaan Thailand in 20 Days – Day 5
One of the things that makes Ubon Ratchathani unique is that Buddhism has flourished here for centuries. Hence you will find many significant temples in and around the city. Although the temples here are not quite as awe-inspiring as those of Bangkok or Chiang Mai, but still they are worth visiting. It should come as no surprise that Ubon Ratchathani is home to one of the most fascinating Buddhist festivals every year. On my second day in Ubon Ratchathani, I planned to witness the Candle Festival Procession and later visit the major temples of the city. Finally, I wished to end the day with a visit to the night market.
Highlights of the Day
- Local Morning Market
- Candle Festival Procession
- 9-Temple Tour (Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram, Wat Mini Wanaram, Wat Maha Wanaram, Wat Thung Si Muang, Wat Liab, Wat Tai Phra Chao Yai Ong Tue, Wat Klang, Wat Luang, and Wat Su Phatthanaram Worawihan)
- Ubon Ratchathani National Museum
- Wat Nong Bua
- Ubon Ratchathani Night Market
Morning Market in Ubon Ratchathani
Vanida also made me aware of the early morning market that opens up every day right opposite to the hostel. I rushed there at around 7 AM to buy a lot of fresh fruits to keep them handy for the rest of the day.
Candle Festival Procession
On the morning of Khao Phansa Day (the second day of the festival), a huge street parade commences from outside Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram at around 8-9 AM. It continues north along Upparat Road and up past the junction with Suriyat Road. The procession takes around 3 h to pass. I headed to Wat Sri Ubon Rattanaram. There were grandstands for spectators to watch the parade. Vanida suggested me to reach there by 7.30 AM to secure a prime viewing spot in the grandstands or near the start of the parade route. I spent at least 2 h witnessing something really grand.
You will find special exhibitions and cultural displays at venues around town as a part of this festival. The temple grounds in Ubon Ratchathani keep the winning floats on display for a number of weeks after the festival. Eventually, the wax sculptures are melted down in keeping with the Buddhist belief that nothing in life is permanent.
9-Temple Tour in Ubon Ratchathani
The temples in Ubon Ratchathani are an intriguing collection with some highly unusual attributes. The best way to explore them is to take the free tourist tram that will take you around 9 major temples of the city. All the temples are 1-2 km away from each other, so it is easy to get around. There is another important temple – Wat Nong Bua – a little far from the city center. You can take a tuk-tuk or songthaew to visit that. None of the temples have any entrance fee.
1. Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram
The first temple I visited was Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram, which is also known as Wat Si Thong. Here, I got a glimpse of a sacred Buddha image, Phra Kaew Butsarakham – it is the largest chunk of topaz in Thailand. It was reportedly brought here from Vientiane at Ubon’s founding and is one of the city’s holiest possessions.
2. Wat Maha Wanaram
The next temple I headed to was Wat Maha Wanaram, also known as Wat Pa Yai. It contains one of the most sacred Buddha images of the province.
3. Wat Mani Wanaram
The next temple the tourist tram stopped at was Wat Mani Wanaram. It is a huge modern building with white and golden tones, which houses an unusual Buddha image.
4. Wat Thung Si Muang
If I have to recommend only one temple to visit in Ubon Ratchathani, it has got to be Wat Thung Si Muang. The exceptionally elegant wooden structure rising from the middle of a lotus pond displays a mix of Lao, Burmese and Thai artistic styles.
5. Wat Liab
The next temple the tourist tram headed to was Wat Liab – another major temple in the city. The temple building looks ordinary from outside, but the ordination hall inside will surely surprise you.
6. Wat Tai Phra Chao Yai Ong Tue
Another interesting temple to visit in Ubon Ratchathani is Wat Tai Phra Chao Yai Ong Tue. Walking through the temple complex took me to the wild world of Hinduism and Buddhism iconography. Everything is dazzling!
7. Wat Klang
My next stop was an old riverside temple that does not look like a Thai temple building in any way. However, it is completely worthy to visit.
8. Wat Luang
Another riverside temple very close to Wat Klang is Wat Luang. The temple looks ordinary, but the Buddha image inside is noteworthy.
9. Wat Su Phatthanaram Worawihan
Finally, I arrived at a temple which is also beside the river, but it looks completely different from the rest. The temple architecture is a mix of Thai and European style. It is also considered as one of Ubon’s largest and most active temples. This was the last temple of the 9-temple tour.
Ubon Ratchathani National Museum
After visiting Wat Su Phatthanaram Worawihan, I walked for only 500 m to visit the National Museum. The rooms exhibit an extensive information on the geography and geology of the Isaan plateau, Ubon’s prehistory, some exquisite pottery, engravings and religious statuary from these cultures, textiles, music, and also Thai/Lao civilisation that took hold in the 18th century. The entrance fee is ฿100 per person. It is open from 9 AM to 4 PM.
Wat Nong Bua – The Most Beautiful Temple in Ubon
If you are wondering how can I visit one more temple after the 9-temple tour of Ubon Ratchathani, let me tell you that you cannot afford to miss this one! Wat Phra That Nong Bua is located 6 km away to the north-west of the city center. I took a songthaew to reach there. The spectacular, gleaming gold-and-white chedi of the temple is sure to dazzle you. It loosely resembles the Mahabodhi Stupa in Bodhgaya, India, where Lord Buddha has said to have attained enlightenment.
Wat Phra That Nong Bua supports one of Ubon’s finest teams of wax-carving artists. Their floats often take the top prize, and I was lucky to see one of them parked on temple grounds.
Ubon Ratchathani Night Market
My last destination for today was Thung Si Muang Night Market, which is located in the city center. I took a songthaew to reach there after visiting Wat Phra That Nong Bua. The night market is not very huge, however, it still makes an excellent dining destination, with all vendors selling Thai, Isaan, and Vietnamese food.
My hostel was just 400 m away from the night market. After such a long day of exploring every possible temple in Ubon Ratchathani, it did not take long for me to sink in a deep sleep.
20 Provinces of Isaan Thailand in 20 Days – Day 6
On the third day of my stay in Ubon Ratchathani, I treated it as a base to explore the 2 most unique temples of the Isaan region. One of them is located in the neighboring province of Sisaket. Sisaket is one of the provinces with a long history, and one of the places of ancient civilization, which blends well with diverse traditions especially ancient Khmer and Isaan tradition. The other one is located in the other end of Ubon Ratchathani province in Srinidhorn district, very close to the Laos border. As both the temples are on opposite ends, it needs long time to travel, explore, and return to Ubon Ratchathani. I started my day early so that I could visit both the sites in a day. Also, I kept a lot of fruits and water in my bag. So I could eat whenever I felt hungry and kept myself hydrated.
Highights of the Day
- Temple of a Million Bottles (Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaew)
- Temple of Fluorescence (Wat Sirindhorn Wararam)
How to Get to the Temple of a Million Bottles?
I boarded the 7 AM local train from Ubon Ratchathani train station to Sisaket – it took 1 h. Then a motorcycle taxi dropped me to Sisaket bus station. From there, local buses run hourly that dropped me close to the famous temple of the province. The bus journey takes another 1.5 h. But Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaew is worth all this journey. Locals also call it “Wat Lan Kuad” – you can call it “Temple of a Million Bottles”.
Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaew in Sisaket Province
Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaew shows how the resourceful monks have used discarded glass bottles and recycled them in an interesting way. This monastery was actually constructed to save money and yet have great looks. However, you may use this as an example of artistic or environmental statement. There is no entrance fee.
How to Get to the Temple of Fluorescence?
After visiting the “Temple of Million Bottles”, I waited for the bus to Sisaket bus station at the same point where it dropped me in the morning. It is an 1.5 h journey, plus another 1 h journey to Ubon Ratchathani. I reached Ubon Ratchathani bus station at around 2 PM. It was not easy to get vegan food there, but I managed to ask one vendor selling Thai food to cook me a vegan Pad Thai. That is the most convenient street food in Thailand.
The next journey to Wat Sirindhorn Wararam from Ubon Ratchathani took 2 h. First, I took a bus to Phibung Mangsahan and then I headed to Chong Mek, a border town in Srinidhorn district. There are only two direct buses from Ubon Ratchathani to Chong Mek, but I arrived in the bus station at a different time, so I had to do the break-journey. Finally, a tuk-tuk from Chong Mek bus station took me to the temple, which is located 8 km away from the bus station, very close to the Thailand-Laos border. Locals also call it “Wat Phu Prao – you can call it “Temple of Fluorescence”.
Wat Sirindhorn Wararam in Ubon Ratchathani Province
The best aspect of Wat Sirindhorn Wararam is that it glows every night due to the fluorescent paint that is used to decorate the temple. The best time to reach there is during sunset. However, expect the temple ground to be crowded at that time as many photographers with their cameras and tripods flock down there to take some really interesting pictures of the site.
In the night, you cannot expect to get a bus back to Ubon Ratchathani. The best way to get back is to book a taxi. It cost me around ฿1,000 to reach 28 Rachabutr Hostel in Ubon Ratchathani in around 1.5 h. Before leaving Chong Mek, I relished a plate of freshly prepared Som Tam from there. Next morning, I continued taking my Isaan journey to its next destination – Mukdahan, located on the bank of Mekong river. See you all until then!
NET EXPENSE FOR 1 PERSON (IN THB)
Let us have a look at the expenses of Days 4-6 in Thailand – Ubon Ratchathani.
- Train from Nakhon Ratchasima to Ubon Ratchathani: 483
- Stay at 28 Rachabutr Hostel (3 nights): 750
- Getting Around: 50
- Round-Trip to Sisaket: 250
- Round-Trip to Chong Mek: 1,250
- Food and miscellaneous: 307
Total expense (roughly): 3,090 THB
For a more customized itinerary, whether for solo or couple or group of any number of people, feel free to contact me on Contact Us page.
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The Candle Festival procession looks like a cool event to attend. The Wat Sirindhorn Wararam temple looks so impressive especially as it glows at night. This is an area of Thailand I’d not heard of, great intro to Ubon Ratchathani.
The temple is really beautiful.
This is such a detailed itinerary – and all parts of Thailand I had never heard of before! Thank you for sharing!
Welcome!
This was a great itinerary! I am hoping to visit Thailand soon, and you have some great tips here! I love that the largest chunk of topaz is there. How neat! the festival looks like a neat cultural experience.
Yes, that’s true Leah.
I’d recently just visited Bangkok a second time last month and how I wish I’d known about Ubon Ratchathani! Wat Sirindhorn Wararam is defs my fave and it’s absolutely beautiful. I how unique that it glows at night! Great itinerary. Bookmarked!
It is the best at night.
How beautiful is this place! So many amazing photos. I wished I touched Thailand sooner in my life but havent got there yet and this has got me wetting my lips even more! The buildings and temples are so beautiful and the candel festival I would love to attend.
Yes Danik, you must experience this beautiful Isaan.
I was amazed by the wax candle structure Thung Si Muang park. That’s a huge one indeed! I wonder how were they able to carry it around town. The parade sounds a long one too. But the floats are definitely amazing with those are intricate sculptures.And the Wat Sirindhorn Wararam… Wow! It’s brilliant! It’s awesome. No wonder, many photographers would like to capture it glow.And you took a great picture too! I love it. I’d love to experience this too! Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks for the appreciation.
Wow, so many beautiful temples to see. They are stunning. I really need to see them in person. I’m fascinated by the temple made of glass bottles. Very clever indeed. The candle festival looks exciting too.
Yes, you must see them in person.
I would love to see the candle festival. That seems amazing. Wat Sirindhorn with the luminescent paint is really beautiful. It seems like Ubon knows how to use light to its fullest.
Yes, true.
I love travel….
So do I.
This is such a beautiful experience. Thailand is one of my favorite places in Asia and there’s just a lot of things to do, see and try. Hope I get the chance and luxury of time to stay on vacation for 20 days.
Oh yes, I wish you get a long vacation as well.
I must admit reading your posts on the off beat spots in Thailand makes me feel I have only scratched the surface of Thailand through my many visits to this beautiful country. You have shown me loads of places that I could have never thought of and Ubon Ratchathani or the “Royal City of the Lotus”.is one such amazing city I must say. I would love to visit it during the festival and see the procession in its full glory. The Wats again are beautiful and picture perfect Thanks for sharing
Glad Amar.
Oh cool 20 days! Reminds me of our 21 days in Sri Lanka! Your post gives me motivation to write down ours ( 21 days in Sri Lanka itinerary! ) haha! Thailand is so great, right? I mean surely 20 days of exploring the province of Isaan Thailand isn’t enough! But what I like here most is the 10baht Pad Thai! Yey to that! How deliciously cheap! Makes me Thai foods so much!
Wow, you have been to Sri Lanka? That’s interesting!
What an ambitious trip! I love that you wanted to scout out each providence. I think that’s often never done and we just hear about a country’s “highlights” or what others have deemed tourist spots. You’re definitely a world traveler. I also love your photographs from Wat Sirindhorn Wararam. I love that the temple glows at night due to the florescent paint that they use. Great read!
Hope you liked it, Martha.
It is so amazing that all the provinces in Thailand have something beautiful to offer. I had not heard about Ubon Ratchathani before but it sure looks stunning. Wat Sirindhorn Wararam temple is gorgeous and a bucketlist item. Thanks for sharing!
I know, Isaan is an offbeat place, you must explore it.
Mostly when one thinks of Thailand they think about Bangkok or Pattaya ..I have not heard about Ubon Ratchathani before this . It seems like a really beautiful place. Especially those temples which are so beautiful. My favorite is WAT SIRINDHORN WARARAM with those florescent paint that looks so amazing. Thanks for sharing.
I am glad that you liked it.
Wow… I haven’t heard about this Destination in Thailand. What a fantastic way of exploring it. The candle procession looks so great. I must say that you have covered it extensively. If anything excites me about Thailand is their breathtaking architecture of temples. I m completely mesmarized by the Wat Sirindhorn Wararam. What sight to behold.
Thanks, and glad you liked it.
Shreya once again you have delivered some really inspirational photos that just makes the wanderlust within me tickle with curiousity. I have been to Thailand but never to this place – now I have some motivation to re-visit and tick this off my list
Thank you so much, Ann.
Wow, you had a full program. 20 places in 20 days, respect! You have certainly seen and experienced a lot. The candle procession I find very exciting. For me a completely unknown culture, I should have read a lot to understand the meaning.
Thanks for the great impressions.
Yes, keep following!
We have traveled to many different parts of Thailand but havent been to Sisaket yet. WAT SIRINDHORN WARARAM temple looks incredible and your photos are stunning. I would also love to attend a candle festival. Love all the details that you have put in this itenary.
Thanks, Lisa.
I’ve haven’t heard of this area of Thailand and loved reading about your time here. The Candle Festival sounds like so much fun. It’s a great way to really see the culture through the different performances and the food booths. Now I know that this festival marks the beginning of rainy season 🙂
Yes, that’s true.
Looks like you have quite the extensive itinerary. There are so many places and things to do! I would want to visit all the temples. Thanks for putting this together.
I am glad you liked it.
I never knew about Ubon Ratchathani before reading your post but this city looks magical. As it has so many cultural things to do, I would love to visit this place. Wat Sirindhorn Wararam glowing at night due to fluroscent paints is stunning and what a great way to highlight a building or a temple without using electricity. This place is very colorful and good to know it is a city of lotus.
Yes, there are so many offbeat places here.
I have not traveled here yet, and know little of the country. I see more and more about it is has me intrigued. I would be interested in visiting the temples and experiencing the candle festival you described. The city is so full of vibrant colours.
You must visit the place, it’s so beautiful.
Wow its great i am planning to visit thailand in January is it good time to visit there please let me know shreya
Yes James, it is.
I love reading about beautiful places, I have never heard anything about this place. Thanks for sharing this great piece of content. Thanks for the share!!
Glad to know that Rishi!
Your guide on Thailand with some hidden gems are truly wonderful and I guess I will not find it anywhere other than your site. Your Day 5 at Ubon Rattanaram looks very interesting. Candle festival looks unique and I loved the grand chariots processions there. It looks very divine here. Also that temple of million of bottles is very unique but I am curious to know if someone throws stone then it will not break or they have preserved the glass by some non-breakable paint?
Well, I am not sure of its unbreakability. But I guess no one would throw a stone at it.
It was great to learn that I could take the train from Bangkok to Ubon. It would be great to plan a visit around the Candle Festival. That huge wax candle was simply stunning to see. Hard to believe it can be carried around. I loved the variety of floats that you showed. Good to finish your day at the night market for great food options.
It’s a must-visit place.
Wow, that temple near the Lao’s boarder looks out of this world… What camera did you use to take these pictures?
Basic mobile camera.