Kinnaur-Lahaul-Spiti Valley in 12 Days – Day 3
After spending beautiful days in Shoghi and Jeori-Sarahan, we were ready to wish goodbye to Shimla district in Himachal Pradesh. Soon when you cross Shimla, you enter a precious and rare little gem located in the northeast corner of the state bordering Tibet to the east. This is a land of majestic snowcapped peaks, countless apple orchards, undulating hills, ridge-villages with slate-roofed temples, and verdant valleys. This is called Kinnaur Valley, most probably because the Kinnaur Kailash mountain is situated here. Many travelers who seek offbeat and secluded places in Himachal Pradesh include visiting Kinnaur valley along with Spiti valley. We headed to Kinnaur valley on the third day of our road trip.
Highlights of the Day
- Departing Jeori-Sarahan
- Kinnaur Valley
- Sangla-Chitkul Road
- Check-In at Negi’s Cottage, Sangla
- Sangla Village
- Batseri Village
- Rakchaam Village
- Chitkul Village
Goodbye to Jeori-Sarahan
We woke up by 7 AM today. We had a long journey ahead. Breakfast was not included with the stay. However, we already bought fruits from Jeori market the last day. So, I prepared Mango-Banana Smoothie for all of us using the portable smoothie blender I usually carry during my trips. Thanks Richie for helping me so we could do it quickly.
Gaurav and Vinay decided to cycle today. So they left an hour earlier. We checked out at around 9 AM. We met the cyclists near Suru bridge.
Kinnaur Valley – Here We Are!
Soon, after crossing Suru, we entered Kinnaur district, where the old Hindustan-Tibet Road passes through along the bank of river Sutlej and finally enters Tibet at Shipki La pass.
The roads takes a dramatic turn for the wild once you enter Kinnaur. The mountain edges here look a lot more jagged than before. The roads suddenly became narrow and deadly and it’s frequently blocked by landslides. In Kinnaur valley, the roads are built by cutting the hills in such a manner that at many places, overhangs are left. Honestly, they look dangerously stunning. They also keep the road under them cooler than the outside temperature. Throughout our journey, we encountered landslides, streams, waterfalls, and also boulders on the road. However, the condition of the road was good throughout the journey.
Baspa Valley in Kinnaur Valley
At around noon, we reached the Karcham. The Baspa river that origins at the Indo-Tibetan border, joins Sutlej river at the left bank near Karcham. You will find Karcham bridge where you need to take the right for driving on one of the most exciting routes in the world.
Sangla-Chitkul Road, Kinnaur Valley – Part 1
As you cross Karcham bridge, you enter one of the most exciting roads in the world – Sangla-Chitkul road. The first 19 km from Karcham to Sangla is an adrenaline-pumping road. This road over the Baspa river, also known as Sangla river, links Karcham, on the NH-5 at an elevation of 1,818 m above sea level and Chitkul, a very picturesque village at 3,450 m above sea level.
Sangla Village, Kinnaur Valley
The first noticeable village in Sangla valley is the biggest town named Sangla itself. It is an uninspiring town full of concrete buildings and is the valley’s largest inhabited settlement. Sangla is all about snowcapped, jagged mountains, foresty slopes, and a beautiful valley through which the emerald Baspa river flows by.
We arrived Sangla by around 1 PM. First, we checked in at Negi’s Cottage in Sangla, which we had already booked earlier. The cottage is located at the end of a left lane diverting from the center of the village amid apple orchards, which is the symbol of Kinnaur valley. We kept the luggage at our rooms, and headed to explore the rest of the valley.
Kamru Fort in Sangla, Kinnaur Valley
If you are in Sangla, visiting Kamru Fort is a good idea. It is just 2 km away from the village center. Built around the 15th century, Kamru is considered one of Himachal’s oldest forts. The architecture of the fort is influenced by both Indian and Tibetan styles. The fort is completely made of wood.
Sangla-Chitkul Road, Kinnaur Valley – Part 2
It was already 3 PM. It would get dark soon by 6 PM. We wanted to explore few villages on the way to Chitkul. First, we stopped at Batseri village, which is only 7 km away from Sangla. The road was exciting with the river flowing close by us.
Batseri Village, Kinnaur Valley
We took around 25 min to drive this stretch though. The village is unlike any other Indian village.
Sangla-Chitkul Road, Kinnaur Valley – Part 3
Our next stop was Rakcham, which is around 10 km from Batseri village. The road leading to Rakchham is extremely narrow and gave us the odd jerk and bump, but the 25-min drive was an absolute treat to witness Mother Earth at her absolute best.
Rakchham Village, Kinnaur Valley
In 2008, Rakchham received the “Nirmal Gram” Award, and on 15th August 2015, the village was given “Maharshi Valmiki” award at the district level.
We spent at least 30 min exploring the village. I was amazed at the cleanliness of the village. Next time I am here, I am surely spending at least a night here, especially at the riverside camps. Can you imagine how interesting that would be? We also managed to meet few locals and have a conversation to know about their lifestyle.
Sangla-Chitkul Road, Kinnaur Valley – Part 4
The last 9 km of the road, from Rakchham to the end in Chitkul, is terrible. It’s gravel, very narrow, and the most challenging part of the drive has been cut through a sheer cliff. As we approached Chitkul, the air got chilly and windy. The road normally closes down around November after the first snowfall. It is advised not to travel this road in severe weather conditions. The zone is prone to heavy mist and can be dangerous in low visibility conditions. During winter, due to frequent patches of ice, heavy snowfalls, avalanches, and landslides can occur anytime. Even in summer, a sudden fall in temperature may trigger winter-like conditions. During rainy season, this track can get very muddy and slippery making it challenging to get through. We were lucky, as we were blessed with best weather conditions.
Chitkul Village, Kinnaur Valley
Chitkul is the last inhabited village near the Indo-China border. The road does not take you till the actual border, as it closes around 90 km before. The Indian road ends here. It is located at 3,450 m above the sea level. The potatoes grown here are world-famous and costly as well. There are wooden houses turned into hotels that can be found here. The beautiful 500-y old Mathi Temple, dedicated to the local Goddess Shri Mathi, is worth a visit because of its wooden architecture. Do visit the “Hindustan ka Akhiri Dhaba” when you are here; the host is friendly and the food is tasty too.
We reached Chitkul at around 5.30 PM. The best way to explore Chitkul village is by foot. You need at least an hour. We chilled by the Baspa river, took photographers, soaked ourselves in every beauty the last village of India offered us. We also had early dinner before driving back to Sangla.
Back to Sangla Village
The sun had almost set while we were leaving Chitkul. It took us almost 1.5 h to reach Negi’s Cottage at Sangla. As it was a homestay, dinner and breakfast facilities were included. I had an early dinner in Chitkul, so I skipped it for that night. Others enjoyed hot chapati and sabji for dinner.
The day was long. We witnessed so many beautiful places of Kinnaur Valley, which included offbeat villages too. I literally sank in the bed; within minutes, I fell asleep.
Total Distance Traveled: 120 km
NET EXPENSE FOR 1 PERSON (IN INR)
Let us have a look at the expenses of Day 3 in India – Jeori-Sarahan to Sangla-Chitkul.
- Stay at Negi’s Cottage (1 night): 1000
- Food and miscellaneous: 250
Total expense (roughly): 1,250 INR
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wow really it is a wonderful images & place shared by really loves to ride on this road will go there
Yes, you must visit the place, James.
Thanks for sharing some parts of India I have yet to explore. I spent a month in the country last year and already can’t wait to return so this is getting bookmarked for that trip! I don’t know if I could drive around Taranda Dhank thought, that gave me a scare just looking at the photos!
It’s a beautiful part of the country.
Spiti is high on my list and every year I plan, somehow Plans get failed. My absolute favorite Place is Chitkul and Rakcham.The apples orchards and natural landscape makes it more beautiful.I have heard many kind stories of Locals ,Can’t wait to explore the Spiti valley soon.
Yes, you must.
Kinnaur valley seems sooo beautiful! We have been hiking in Nepal before and the landscape from your travel at Kinnaur valley really reminds me of of there. It really looks like a out of off the beaten tracks and I like that kind of travel, and nothing like we have seen in India! Hopefully one day when we are ready to get back there.
You are most welcome!
I gotto give you brownie points to do that chakra asana in the middle of the road. This year I wanted to plan for Kinnar spiti or Ladakh but thanks to pandemic situation all my plans have gone down the drains. Nevertheless your article does gives a ray of hope that may be in future I would be able to travel to the mountains of spiti.
Oh yes, why not!
Following your journey has been interesting and realize a lot is unexplored by me. While I was staying in Delhi I would take solo trips on weekends with a few leaves added in to explore Himachal or Uttarakhand as I love the mountains.Kinnaur valley looks absolutely stunning.The spectacular view of the valley with Tibet on the other end and the Baspa river running wild seems out of the world. I can imagine what a wonderful you friends together.
Very true, Subhashish.
Your story about the apple farmer giving away his apples reminds me of my time in Cape Verde. The farmers were always so generous with their product. I would be hiking along and a farmer would greet me, welcome me to their town, and say here are some of my mangoes please enjoy! I always find small villages like Kinnaur so hospitable and warm.
People in such places are really warm.
Wow! Thank you for sharing your wonderful trip. Happy to read about your experience and it’s wonderful that you are able to interact with the locals. It simply makes the trip more memorable.
Such a treat to receive apples. 🙂
It was a treat indeed.
Thanks for sharing your trip with us especially at this time when we are in lockdown and can’t physically travel. It helps to be able to ‘virtually’ travel with you.
I am glad that I can make you do that.
I can certainly see why you would want to visit the Kinnaur Valley. Travelling through this area must be quite amazing. But those overhanging rocks and twisting roads might make me think twice. I would certainly be glad when I arrived in Sangla for a break. How great to spend some time with the local people. And learn about their lifestyle.
It was a wonderful experience.
Oh my god look at those spectacular pictures. I miss traveling in India. The warmth, the people and the places, I miss everything about it. These places esp Kinnaur Valley is also on my bucket list. If I had stayed in India for longer, I would have visited these places by now.
There is always a next time.
wow this road trip sounds so fun.I have read a lot of stories about Kinnaur Lahaul- Spiti valley. Yay for free apples. The mountain views looks stunning. Hope to visit Kinnaur valley one day.
Sure, why not!
What a lovely adventure you had with your road trip to Kinnaur Valley. I find Rakchham fascinating as a place for solitude and that it is a village lost in time with no markets, call phones and ATMs.
The traditional architecture and the way they dress is all amazing. I like that you fully immerse yourselves in the cultural aspect of travelling. Awesome!
Glad you liked it.
Wow! What a lovely location! I can’t believe the things you have to drive through – tunnels, low overhangs, brides. So interesting! And you are so right about not needing much more than a clean, safe, comfy place to stay. I like saving money, so I like economical places to sleep. Looks like a fabulous trip!
Yes, it was indeed.
Going to Kinnaur valley on the third day of your road trip really looks a beautiful road trip with wonderful stop overs. Wow meeting apple farmers with locally produced apples must be a beautiful encounter for you here. Baspa valley with Baspa river flowing looks a wonderful sight. Wobbly suspension bridges over Baspa river too look very beautiful. You have taken wonderful photos.
Thanks Yukti.
Beautiful photos ! That view of the mountains and valleys from your balcony at Jeori Sarahan is gorgeous ! Chitkul road looks really dangerous, with the narrrow one way street, tight turns, and what looks like deadly drops ! One must be really careful driving on this road ! Love to try the apples from Kinnaur valley, wondering what’s the texture like ? =)
It was chemical-free.
You have so many beautiful photos! <3 What a beautiful trip with nature. That long journey was really worth it. <3 I love the part where you came across so many streams and mountains. I mean – I can stay there whole day! It’s very relaxing. Your last photo of the Kinaur Valley is so beautiful. I have no words. This world has lots of wonders. Im looking forward to experience this long trip as well. 🙂
Nice to know that.
This would be one of the best road trips to take. Kinnaur itself is so beautiful. It’s so wonderful that you got to meet the apple farmers. The photos are so beautiful. Great post.
Thank you Tamshuk.
That looks like an epic road trip adventure! So glad to see this untouched India away from all the touristy trap. The air looks so fresh & landscape looks serene. You post really gives me a wanderlust to travel again amidst the nature!
That’s true, Ana.
Thanks for sharing such a unique experience! What a fascinating roadrip through a gorgeous area of India. Love seeing the untouched beauty away from all the crods – perfect for social distancing!
Oh yes, it is really pretty.
Every time I read your post, I just want to pack my bags and rush to the Spiti Valley. We are absolutely in love with this whole route especially the one after Rampur and nothing can beat the views of Sangla – Chitkul. Hopefully the Covid 19 situation gets better soon and we can hit back the roads.
I wish the same.
Nostalgic. I have done Kinnaur and Spiti valley a no of times on bike, but never got enough of it. Reading your post again made me longe for another run at it. Beautiful coverage.
Wow, you have biked the route?