Cambodia in a Week – Day 3
Phnom Penh is the capital city of Cambodia, located at the confluence of Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers. The charming riverside promenade and beautiful Cambodian Buddhist wats, palaces, museums, etc. have helped in retaining the former charm of the city. Unfortunately, many tourists come to Phnom Penh to know about the dark chapters of the country’s history – to visit the genocide museum and killing fields – that has nothing to do with friendly and youthful modern day Cambodia.
Highlights of the Day
- Check in at Hostel
- Choeung Ek Genocidal Center
- Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
- Mekong River Cruise
Check in at One Stop Hostel
Onederz and One Stop Hostels belong to the same owner – they are doing a great job in providing comfortable hostel services to tourists and travelers in Cambodia. We loved our stay in Onederz in Seam Riep. Without thinking twice, we decided to stay at One Stop Hostel Phnom Penh. We booked 2 dorm beds for 2 nights.
We reached Giant Ibis Bus Terminal of Phnom Penh at around 6 AM. It was just 200 m away from our hostel. It just took 3 min to walk to the hostel.
The reception staff was very welcoming. He helped us take our bags to the dorm room. Note there is no lift in the hostel, but the hostel rooms are clean, bathrooms are clean, it has a kitchen downstairs and movie lounge at mezzanine floor.
Looking at such comfortable beds, we could not resist and actually slept for hours until close to noon.
Dark History of Phnom Penh
You cannot really miss visiting the historical sites cladded with pain and sorrow when you are in Phnom Penh. The staff at the reception of the hostel arranged a tuk tuk for us who planned to take us to the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. We left at around noon.
The years between 1975 and 1979 is considered as the dark years of Phnom Penh. In 1975, the Khmer Rouge came into power and established the Democratic Kampuchea as a result of the Cambodian Civil War, which caused forced relocation of the population from urban centers. In the timespan of 3-4 years, Cambodian genocide was carried out by the Khmer Rouge regime led by Pol Pot in which around 1.5-3 million people died, due to torture, mass executions, malnutrition, use of forced labor, and disease, which wiped out an estimated 25% of the population.
The Khmer Rouge government arrested, interrogated, tortured, and eventually executed anyone suspected of being enemies, which fall under the following categories:
- Anyone with connections to the former government or with foreign governments
- Professionals and intellectuals, including people who are well educated, understood a foreign language, people who required glasses, and many artists, including musicians, writers and film makers
- Ethnic Thai, ethnic Vietnamese, ethnic Chinese, and other minorities including Cambodian Christians, Muslims and the Buddhist monks
- Many of the former economic dwellers
Visit to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and Choeung Ek Killing Fields was very depressing. Still, I would recommend anyone coming to Phnom Penh to visit these places to know the painful history of the country. The entry fee to both the places is 6 $ each, which includes audio tours.
They were taken to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, formerly known as S21 prison which was a high school-turned prison camp taken over by Polpot’s security forces in 1975. It soon became the largest centre of detention and torture in the country, where prisoners were forced to confess to whatever crimes they were charged with by their captors.
The prisoners were tortured and also killed, but soon to save ammunition, they were finally executed and buried in mass graves at the killing fields of Choeung Ek, a little away from Phnom Penh. Some 17,000 people passed through S21 prison and only 7 are known to have survived. S21 prison was one of around 200 prisons operated by the Khmer Rouge in the whole country.
Choeung Ek Genocidal Center
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
It was around 4 PM when we finished visiting the most horrific places of the country. We were saddened, but glad that all this has come to an end, and present day Cambodia is charming and happy. The tuktuk dropped us back to the hostel in another 15 mins as Tuol Sleng was not very far from One Stop Hostel, Phnom Penh.
Memorable Cambodia Cruise
The history of the country was sad, and it took us to a depressing state indeed, we needed to cheer up and Memorable Cambodia Cruise did the needful by allowing us to experience a wonderful sunset cruise on Mekong river.
Memorable Cambodia Cruise is run and operated by a group of Cambodian students who study in the university of Tourism since July, 2013. We had booked the cruise with them online. It included pick up from the hostel, unlimited beer and soft drinks, fruit platter, cold towel, and an English speaking guide.
We were picked up from our hostel by a tuktuk sent by the cruise company at around 4.30 PM. It was a matter of surprise when we realized that it was just the two of us who have boarded the cruise that evening – so it was all ours!
We walked back to our hostel and settled in having dinner from the kitchen of our hostel, before hitting the bed!
Cambodia in a Week – Day 4
Yesterday, we visited the painful historical sites of Phnom Penh followed by a wonderful sunset cruise. Today is Khmer New Year, and the whole capital city is rejoicing to welcome the joyousness of a fresh year. Today I and my friend decided to hire a tuktuk from our hostel and take a tour of the city for half day, and rest of the day we would walk on our own and explore more of the city
Highlights of the Day
- Russian Market
- Independence Monument
- Lunch at the Vegetarian Restaurant
- Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda
- National Museum of Cambodia
- Sisowath Quay
- Wat Phnom
- Dinner at Hummus House
- Late Night Body Massage
Sightseeing in the City
We had a fulfilling breakfast of hot pancakes with maple syrup and mixed fruits. Then we hired a tuktuk for half day, who would take us around the places we want to visit in the city and would of course wait for us while we are exploring the places. We left the hotel at around 10 AM.
We talked with the tuktuk driver and discussed our itinerary. First, we wanted him to take us to Russian market, then independence monument, and take us to a vegan-friendly restaurant of our choice, and finally drop us at the Royal Palace. Then we planned to walk along the riverside and check out other places of the city on our own.
Russian Market
Our first destination was Russian Market, locally called as Phsar Tuol Tom Pong. The market was 6 km away from our hostel and is one of the must-shop spots in Phnom Penh. It got its name in 1980s when most of its visitors were Soviets. The market is open from 6 AM to 5 PM. It is a huge market with confusing maze inside and multiple goodies. If you are planning to shop, then you should dedicate half a day or more here. We spent 2 hours in the market as my friend had to shop few handicrafts and other goodies. Do not forget to bargain.
Independence Monument
Phnom Penh got its independence from France in 1953 and in its commemoration, a structure similar to the central tower of Angkor Wat was designed by Vann Molyvann, a cultural icon of the country. This also serves as a memorial to Cambodia’s war dead. It has a park, which is popular for joggers and dog-walkers in early morning and evening.
Lunch at The Vegetarian Restaurant
A lovely garden restaurant with wooden seats is laid out in the middle of the city not very far from the Independence Monument. Vegetarian restaurants are gaining popularity and this one is surely popular, as the tuktuk driver took us there easily once he got to know we were planning for having our lunch there.
Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda
The two sites are separate though can be visited as one for an entrance fee of 10 $ overall. They are open from 8 AM to 11 AM and from 2 PM to 5 PM.
It was 2 PM when we reached the complex of Royal Palace. Here we bid goodbye to our tuktuk driver.
The Royal Palace is a must-visit public building in Phnom Penh. It was built in the 19th century with French technology and keeping Cambodian design as the core. Next to the Palace, is situated the magnificent Silver Pagoda sits on 5 tonnes of silver tiles covering the floor, only a little part of which is exposed at the entrance. It is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, which houses a large jade Buddha statue.
National Museum of Cambodia
The museum is open from 8 AM to 5 PM and the entry fee is only 5 $.
If you are a history-lover like us, you must visit the National Museum of Cambodia. It is located just 500 m away from the Royal Palace. It contains an excellent collection of art from the golden age of Angkor. Its courtyard garden looks beautiful. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed.
Sisowath Quay
The sun had lost its strength by now. So we were glad to get to enjoy a beautiful walk by an attractive boulevard running along the banks of the Mekong river and Tonle Sap river. This walkway is called Sisowath Quay. It is an open riverside pathway fringed with palm trees and manicured lawns on its side.
Wat Phnom
Locals believe that the city got its name from this hill.
It was around 2 km walk along the Sisowath Quay before we took a left turn crossing our hostel. Finally, we reached the beautiful hill temple, which gathered a lot of local crowd due to the Khmer New Year. There is an entry fee of 1 $. The temple grounds are open from 7 AM to 6.30 PM. Note there is a museum inside that closes at 6 PM.
Dinner at Hummus House
We directly headed to a Lebanese restaurant. It had caught my attention while I was on the way to Wat Phnom. The place is located very close to One Stop Hostel Phnom Penh. It has a huge menu featuring different Lebanese delicacies, including falafels, hummus, mediterranean mezzes, and wraps. I would highly recommend you to dine at this place if you are fond of Lebanese cuisine. The food was excellent in taste.
Getting a massage right after food is not a very good idea – foot massage is fine, but not body massage.
After such a delicious dinner, we were heading to our hostel. Suddenly we came across few traditional Khmer massage parlors on the same road. We found that the parlors are open until midnight, so we booked body massages for us at 11 PM. Meanwhile, we planned to explore the night market nearby. But we were informed that Phnom Penh Night Market opens only on Friday-Sunday. It was a Wednesday, so no luck in that. Finally, we took rest at our hostel until 11 PM as everything was nearby.
Post-body-massage-sleep is deep, undisturbed, and the best. Goodnight!
NET EXPENSE FOR 1 PERSON (IN USD)
Let us have a look at the expenses of Days 3-4 in Cambodia – Phnom Pehn.
- Hostel in Phnom Penh for single bed (2 nights): 20
- Getting around: 25
- Entrance fee to the places in Phnom Penh: 38
- Cruise: 20
- Food: 15
- Miscellaneous: 10
Total expense (roughly): 128 USD
For an overall idea of itinerary and expense of the trip, whether for solo or couple or group of any number of people, feel free to contact me on Contact Us page. You can also have a look at Cambodia in a Week – Itinerary and Expenses.
If you are planning for a much-organized, tastefully-curated, stress-free yet exciting vacation, consider booking your holidays at Travel Love Repeat. It is going to be a treat for sure!
Very well penned, a virtual walkthrough the seemingly interesting Phnom Penh and the way of telling through beautiful pictures is great… Looking forward for more blogs!!
Thanks much, Arun! Keep an eye on my upcoming blogs, please.
Phnom Penh is one our list this year for travels so this article is timely. Pancakes for breakfast and fruit is my idea of ‘yum’. Disturbing to learn so much about the history of Cambodia and the killing fields and 8000 skulls. Thanks for sharing.
Phnom Penh has had a tough history.
Phnom Penh and the entire country of Cambodia sure had a rough 2nd half of the 20th century. Having visited Cambodia last year, I could notice that the wounds are still fresh and the country is recovering from the gruesome events. However, Phnom Pneh is absolutely amazing, I loved everything about the city. Thank you for sharing this virtual tour, it brought back so many nice memories.
Couldn’t agree with you more, Daniel.
Though I love visiting museum, I think this is the museum that its my taste. They may have reason but, I believe they should build a resting place for these human bones and not let the people feast and display for viewing. In Asia, Cambodia is something that I am not sure if I am capable to visit due to my travel lifestyle.
You may try visiting it once.
Cambodia is one place I’ve still yet to see. As hard as it is to see the tragic part of the capital’s history, it’s an integral part of their story. I’d like to see the Royal Palace too and see the French influence; it’s surely very interesting.
It is really interesting Lisa.
Cambodia has such an interesting and tragic history which makes it very evocative to explore. I’ve done a similar itinerary to yours and while it was very moving, I think it’s a bit of a shame the killing fields is privately owned and now a bit of a tourist attraction. Still, it has to be done. Thanks for such a detailed informative post.
Yes, the world needs to know.
We currently travelling Southeast Asia and Cambodia is definitely on our list so this guide is great! I would love to visit the Royal Palace and silver Pagoda – so great that you can buy one ticket for entrance to both. As for the killing fields – it’s so tragic and crazy to think that it’s such a big tourist attraction
Yes, it is.
I’ve never been to Cambodia before, but I’ve heard many things about it. Of course, it has quite a bit of history (quite tragic too) but it’s very interesting to learn about it, especially when you’re visiting. The memorial stupa sounds kinda creepy though, with the skulls!
True that, but worthy!
It’s so interesting but yet so sad that you got to see so much history. We really all need to be more conscious as we’re traveling in understanding the history of the place we’re in. Thanks for sharing!
It was painful.
Visiting Cambodia has been on our bucket list and I am sure Phnom Penh will be on our itinerary when we make that trip. I didn’t know about the dark history of Phnom Penh until I came across your post – thanks for introducing me to it and helping me understand more about this destination. The monuments in the park of Independence are so impressive and I would love to try that mango smoothie on our visit.
Oh surely, Aditi.
I think touring the dark and gritty side of a destination should also be a part of a tour or trip. Not all places have a history like a bed of roses, and these dark episodes form a unique part of a place’s history and culture. We have something like this in Puerto Princesa Palawan, a corner of a memorial park where, during World War 2, American soldiers were burned alive by the soldiers of the Japanese Empire. I for one would like to visit Genocide Museum. Interesting!
I didn’t know about this one in Puerto Princesa.
To be honest, I have never heard about genocide in Cambodia. Such things rarely reach us in Europe, so unless you specialize in history of Asia, you never got to know. Sad to to that such things happened there 🙁
Even I wasnt aware of it before.
Ohy, I am much too empathic to visit such sites but the cruise and Silver Pagoda appeal to me. I am also quite intrigued about staying in a hostel. Sounds neat!
Great!
I guess you can classify a visit to Phnom Penh as dark tourism, considering that most historical places you visited were somehow related to a period of time in history which was dark. I am personally not aware of the genocide in Cambodia although I do know that they had a long period of civil war. Visiting the Choeung ek genocidal centre must be a hard experience, learning about how the people were executed. I cannot believe they wiped out 25% of the population!
Sad history, yes, but really important to know.
I’ve been reading about the genocide of Cambodia and though I admit it is a cruel history, Cambodia have the right to rise up and be known as a beautiful place to visit and not to be known as dark tourism. It our travelers support, their image can be reborn.
Totally agree with you.
I felt like I was on a virtual tour of Phnom Penh while reading your post. Cambodia is on my bucket list and hope to visit there soon. How many days will you suggest for Cambodia trip?
6 days is good.
Hi, always I used to check web site posts here in the early hours in the dawn, as I like to gain knowledge of more and more.
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Okay. Enjoy then!