Traversing Vietnam from South to North in 10 Days – Day 4
Do you know who ruled Vietnam before the communist government sprung up in Hanoi under Ho Chi Minh in 1945?It was ruled by the Nguyen Dynasty. It was a powerful family who had its capital in the city of Hue for more than 100 years. Hue was the national capital then. Also, it was considered to be the cultural, political, and religious center of Vietnam. Due to its well-known historic values, it is now known as the Imperial City of Vietnam. Furthermore, it has been recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Highlights of the Day
- Hai Van Pass
- Tomb of Minh Mang
- Town of Khai Din
- Town of Tu Duc
- Hue Citadel
- Thien Mu Pagoda
- Check-in at Serene Shining Hotel
- Dinner at Lien Hoa
Adieu Da Nang
We stayed at Funtastic Beach Hostel in Da Nang, which was only few meters away from the city beach. We woke up early morning to have a glimpse of the beach before we left Da Nang.
We had booked our stay in Serene Shining Hotel in Hue. The hotel had arranged us a car with driver. He picked us up from our hostel in Da Nang and, took us to the important attraction sites of Hue. Finally, he dropped us at the hotel in Hue.
Crossing the Hai Van Pass
BBC TV program Top Gear presenters called the Hai Van Pass “a deserted ribbon of perfection, one of the best coast roads in the world”.
We left Da Nang at around 7 AM. In an hour’s time, the weather started getting cooler as we entered a mountainous stretch of road. Hai Van Pass means “the Pass of Ocean Mist”. Hai Van Pass was known as the “Street Without Joy”during the Vietnam War. During that time, the route connected two war-scarred cities of Da Nang and Hue. In 2005, a tunnel was constructed under the mountains. It is now used by majority of transport, leaving the Hai Van Pass free for two-wheelers and trucks. However, we made sure we do not take the tunnel. We took the pass instead to enjoy breathtaking views of the South China Sea coastline.
The best time to do it is from April to October.
Hai Van Pass acts as a natural barrier to the south of the country from typhoons, bringing hurricane-force cold winds called “Chinese Winds”, torrential rain and storms that blow the north during September-October.
After crossing Hai Van Pass, it took another 1.5 h to reach Hue. First, Mr. Thinh took us to the three most important tombs of Hue, then we visited a popular pagoda by the riverside, and finally the huge royal palace of the city.
Entrance Fee of the Tombs and Palace of Hue
The entrance fee of each of the tombs that we planned to visit is 100,000 d or 5 $ and the entrance fee of the royal palace is 150,000 d or 7.5 $. But at the ticket office of the tomb of Minh Mang, we found a better deal. We could visit all the four sites for 360,000 d or 18 $ per person.
Note that all the tombs and the royal palace are generally open from 7 AM to 5 PM. Also, there is no entrance fee needed to visit Thien Mu Pagoda.
Tomb of Minh Mang
The tomb was planned during the reign of King Minh Mang, the second ruler of the Nguyen Dynasty, from 1820 to 1841, while it was built by his successor, Thieu Tri from 1840 to 1843.
This imperial tomb is built strictly according to the Chinese Confucian principles, which is well reflected by the pleasing balance of its main structures set up between lakes and gardens. The tomb is set up in a symmetrical central axis by pavement called Than Dao trail, on which the main constructions of the ritual and burial areas are arranged along both sides of a lake of lotus flowers, called Trung Minh lake.
Tomb of Khai Din
The tomb was built for Khai Dinh, the 12th king of the Nguyen dynasty. However, he was not considered to be a nice person. He was widely seen as a puppet of the French and mostly useless as well.
Just within 3.5 km from the tomb of Minh Mang, the tomb of Khai Din is situated. The tomb may be the smallest, but it is the costliest tomb that was built during 11 years from 1920 to 1931. It is the latest tomb and has been declared the most majestic imperial tomb of the whole Vietnam. The tomb is a blend of Vietnamese and European architecture. It was made of modern French materials, such as iron, cement, steel, and ceramic tiles associated with Vietnamese materials, such as mortar and terracotta. Khai Dinh’s unpopularity reached its peak when he authorized the French to raise taxes on the Vietnamese peasants by 30% to fund this lavish mausoleum.
Tomb of Tu Duc
The tomb was built under the reign of Emperor Tu Duc. He enjoyed the longest reign in the Nguyen dynasty, ruling from 1848 to 1883. He designed this tomb himself to use it as Summer Palace and spiritual retreat.
Tu Duc tomb lies 7 km toward the north-west from the tomb of Khai Dinh. This tomb is the most admired and spectacular of the royal mausoleums. It took 3 years (1864-67) to build this vast, magnificent complex set around a beautiful lake. The wooden pavilions, temples, and tombs were dedicated to wives of Tu Duc and his favored courtesans. Tu Duc had a luxurious, pleasureful life. He had 104 wives and numerous concubines. However, he had no offspring. But he adopted a son Emperor Kien Phuc, who was murdered after 8 months of reign. Tu Duc’s tomb is a mere coffin where he was never interred. It is not known where his remains were buried along with great treasure. But it is known that all 200 servants who buried the king were beheaded to keep his treasure secret from robbers.
After visiting Tu Duc, we had basic vegan Vietnamese food in a local restaurant. It was just few meters outside the gate of Tu Duc.
Hue Citadel
Hue Citadel is a large fortress built over a period of more than 100 years by Nguyen Dynasty. Its construction started in the early 19th century under the reign of Emperor Gia Long.
It was around 2.30 PM when we reached our next destination – Hue Citadel – Hue’s prime attraction. It is a huge stretch of beautiful temples melted between walls, moats, and ramparts, which coexist with museums, galleries, pavilions, shops, and impressive gates. The citadel is flanked by Perfume river on its side.
The whole complex is divided into three circles of ramparts:
- Hue Capital Citadel – Kinh Thanh
- Royal Citadel or Imperial Enclosure – Hoang Thanh
- Forbidden City – Tu Cam Thanh
1. Hue Capital Citadel
Hue Capital citadel is the exterior-most part of the citadel. It is square in shape, 10 km in circumference, with 10 entrances. It has an ancillary gate connecting the Peaceful Protector Gate called Tran Binh Mon.
2. Royal Citadel or imperial Enclosure
The Royal Citadel is a citadel-within-a-citadel, housing the emperor’s residence, palaces, temples, and other main buildings. It has a protecting trench system made of zig-zag moats surrounding it, and is accessible through 4 entrance gates. We entered through the most popular gate – the Ngo Mon gate, also known as the Meridian Gate. It faces the Flag Tower and is the main southern entrance to the city.
The electric car charges 240,000 d or 12 $ for a maximum of 7 passengers for touring around the citadel for 45 minutes, and 300,000 d or 15 $ for 1 h.
The enclosure is huge but poor signage can make navigation little difficult. Either you start from Ngo Mon Gate and keep strolling anticlockwise around the enclosure or if you are in a group like us, you can take an electric car like we did. The electric car took us around the complex clockwise.
Just past the Ngo Mon Gate, you would come across Thai Hoa Palace, also known as the Palace of Supreme Harmony – the most impressive palace of the Imperial Enclosure. It acted as the site for coronation of the emperors, royal birthdays, receptions of ambassadors, and other major events. The palace houses the throne of the Nguyen emperors. Photography is not allowed inside the palace.
Just behind Thai Hoa Palace, you would come across the Halls of the Mandarins on either side of a courtyard, which were used by mandarins as offices and to prepare for court ceremonies.
Next stop was the The Mieu or To Mieu Temple Complex, the prestigious temple courtyard of the dynasty. It is a highly impressive walled complex in the southwest corner of the Imperial Enclosure.
After the huge dynastic temple courtyard, the tram took us to the splendid, partially ruined Dien Tho Residence, also known as the Residence of the Lasting Longevity. Once it comprised the apartments and audience hall of the queen mothers of the Nguyen dynasty.
Truong Sanh Residence was the residence of King Tu Duc’s mother, Empress Tu Du, under the Nguyen Dynasty in the 19th century, but it has been devastated by war.
There is a pleasure pavilion called Truong Du pavilion above a lily pond just outside the Dien Tho Residence, that has now been transformed into a cafe worthy of a refreshment stop.
The tram took a turn to the northeast corner of the Imperial Enclosure, where we came across delightful gardens called Co Ha Gardens.
The Royal Theatre is located in the east of the Imperial Enclosure. It is a home to the National Conservatory of Music. It displays masks and musical instruments from Vietnamese theater, with English descriptions. You can attend a cultural performances here that last for 45 min.
To its southeast, lies the Thai To Mieu temple complex, which has almost no remains now, so it is converted into a plant nursery. Also, the University of Arts during the imperial time used to be here whose remains are also not there anymore.
3. Forbidden City
Forbidden City, also known as Forbidden Purple City, is located at the very center of the Imperial Enclosure, but it has been completely destroyed in the wars, having no remains at all. It used to be a citadel-within-a-citadel-within-a-citadel and was reserved solely for the personal use of the Emperor. It is known that the only servants who were allowed into this compound were eunuchs.
We almost spent 1.5 h of good time inside the citadel. Mr. Thinh asked us to get back to the Chuong Duc Gate – the gate is on the west side of the citadel, where the electric car dropped us finally.
Thien Mu Pagoda
Next, within 4 km distance toward the west of the Citadel by the side of the Perfume river, lies the Thien Mu Pagoda.
Serene Shining Hotel
Serene Shining hotel is a modern hotel that is located in a quite alley in the heart of Hue. We reached hotel at around 6 PM. We got three executive rooms with river view, which includes buffet breakfast.
Dinner at Lien Hoa
We decided to have dinner at Lien Hoa, a very popular vegan-friendly restaurant. It is a no-nonsense vegetarian restaurant known for providing large quantities of fresh vegetarian food at cheap rate.
We were delighted with the fresh, hot and tasty dishes we got to relish at the restaurant. We walked back to our hotel and hit the bed, so we could sleep early and wake up next morning early for exploring Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. Goodnight!
NET EXPENSE FOR 1 PERSON (IN USD)
Let us have a look at the expenses of Day 4 in Vietnam – Hue.
- Hotel in Hue for twin sharing (1 night): 15
- Getting around: 25
- Entrance fee of the places in the city: 18
- Food: 12
Total expense (roughly): 70 USD
For an overall idea of itinerary and expense of the trip, whether for solo or couple or group of any number of people, feel free to contact me on Contact Us page. You can also have a look at Traversing Vietnam from South to North in 10 Days – Itinerary and Expenses.
If you are planning for a much-organized, tastefully-curated, stress-free yet exciting vacation, consider booking your holidays at Travel Love Repeat. It is going to be a treat for sure!
So much history! It sounds like you had a great driver who helped make your day a success.
Yes, the driver was having a very good knowledge about the places he took us to.
The tomb of Khai Dinh is incredible! I couldn’t take my eyes off your photos! Such a shame I didn’t make it to Hue when I was in Vietnam; I need to go back!
I have noticed Shreya that you like visiting places of historical importance and that’s great because we have a shared interest! You always give details about the distances, costs, time taken to get to a place, etc and these are very practical things that we look for when we are researching visiting a particular place. I know I can refer to your blog whenever I need to do in-depth research on a place I’m going to visit.
Looks and sounds like you had a fantastic trip! I really love the way you included quotes too. Such awesome tips and interesting insight. And you had me at room with a view. Will defs have to look into Serene Shining Hotel if and when I visit!!
Wow, all of the tombs are just incredible, there is so much detail and history. I have to say I wasn’t aware of all these interesting places in Vietnam, they surely sound like great places to explore the history of the country. Thanks for sharing such a detailed post of your trip.
Wow there is so much history in the places you visited. I have heard so many good things of Vietnam and I would love to go. I particularly loved the tombs that you described here. Thank you for all the info.
Glad you liked it.
I would love to do this. I haved visited a lot of tombs throughout China. You have shared so much information. Thanks.
Glad that you liked it.
This post brought back great memories of my trip to Vietnam. We loved our time in Hue but I’ve learned more from this post than from our guide when we were there lol. The drive over Hai Van Pass is amazing, isn’t it?
Loved the drive over Hai Van Pass.
Somehow I missed the history of Hue because of the non-stop articles about the beaches in Vietnam. Glad I got to read your post so I learned about the Nguyen Dynasty a lot. It’s impressive that most of them are still intact even after the communism took over the country.
Vietnam is rich in history, indeed.
Very comprehensive post. I love the practical and historical information. I’ve learned a lot about the Nguyen dynasty. It seems their kings were as concerned about the place where they spent their life as they were about the place where they will spend their afterlife. That tomb looks so majestic!
You will love visiting them.
Hi. I will be visiting Vietnam later this year. This post has come right on time. I will be planning my itinerary according to this now. Waiting to read about Vietnam from you.
Hope this helps, Pooja.
Vietnam is very high on my list for my future travels! I have never known that there are so many Unesco Heritage Sites there. We love visiting these sites since they tell us something important from our history. The Forbidden Purple City looks amazing, as all these other pavilions as well. This is a great guide for our Vietnam visit!
The Forbidden Purple City is my favorite too.
This is such a comprehensive post, thanks! The Tomb of Tu Duc looks fantastic. The pictures of the grounds and nature around looks amazing!
Thanks David.
A very in-depth post and a lot of good tips here if anyone is planning to visit Vietnam and starting from the south. Did not know that Hur due to historic values is known as the Imperial City of Vietnam. There is so much architecture and a great treat for a UNESCO World heritage site buff like me. The shining hotel seems like a great place to crash as well after a hot noodle soup.
Glad you liked it.
Hey Shreya, I live in Hue and work as a tour guide. I am so glad you liked my hometown. I wish we had met. Keep traveling girl!
So nice to know that, Thu Ngo.