Kenya’s Desert, Wildlife, and Beaches in 15 Days – Day 5
When we hear of Kenya, we think of Maasai Mara, Maasai and Samburu tribes, etc. Undoubtedly, Maasai Mara is a spectacular national reserve and Maasai tribe is popular. However, up north near the Kenya-Ethiopia border, lies a completely different topography with a near-extinct tribe. Up there, the El Molo tribe is struggling to exist on the shores of Lake Turkana. In our Kenya expedition, we drove all the way up there to know more about them. We started from Nairobi by a customized 4 x 4 pop-up top Land cruiser jeep. John was the driver and Jumah was the cook. We visited Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Buffalo Springs and Samburu National Reserves on the way to Marsabit National Park. Then, we crossed the Chalbi desert that took around 8-9 h before we reached Loiyangalani. It is a small town located on the southeastern coast of Lake Turkana in Kenya.
Highlights of the Day
- Visit El Molo Village
- Lake Turkana Excursion
- Drive to Maralal via South Horr
- Overnight in Maralal
Check-Out from Palm Shade Resort in Loiyangalani
We arrived Loiyangalani on the previous night. The name Loiyangalani mean “a place of many trees” in their native language. The village has 1,000 inhabitants. It is a meeting point of the great northern tribes – Turkana, Samburu, Gabbra and El Molo. The little village is one of the most exotic corners of Kenya. It is completely worth the long 9-h rough journey from Marsabit National Park. You can read the story of our journey here. We set up our tents and camped overnight in the camping site of Palm Shade Resort. It is located very close to the shores of Lake Turkana.
This morning, we spoke to a local person whom the resort owner introduced us to. His name was Richard. He would be our guide while visiting the El Molo village. But before visiting the village, we packed all our luggage and kept everything arranged at the back of our vehicle. Meanwhile, when John was helping in arranging all the lugagge, Jumah cooked breakfast for us. Their teamwork was brilliant. We filled our stomach and Jumah cleaned all kitchen equipments quickly and packed them too. We checked out from Palm Shade Resort and headed to El Molo village with Richard. It was around 10 AM.
El Molo Village on the Shores of Lake Turkana
You cannot just appear before the El Molo tribe; you need to have someone from the local as a mediator. We paid him around 15,000 ksh for the tour. It included interacting with the tribe, taking pictures, boat ride across Lake Turkana, and visiting a local island. The major part of money goes to the tribe and the guide gets to keep a small part of it.
El Molo people, also known as “people of the lake” or “hunters of the jade sea”, are Cushitic, smallest and near extinct ethnic group found in northern Kenya. With a population of less than 300 people, and decreasing, the El Molo is probably Africa’s smallest ethnic group. They live on the east bank of the Lake Turkana Lake. The tiny population fishes the lake for giant Nile perch. They are the most skillful-hardy fishermen among the mostly semi- nomadic pastoral tribes around Lake Turkana in Loiyangalani Division of Marsabit District.
Island Excursion on Lake Turkana
Lake Turkana is the world’s largest permanent desert lake and the world’s largest alkaline lake. This UNESCO-listed lake is made up of 3 national parks – Sibiloi National Park up north, the Central Island National Park in the center, and the South Island National Park in the south, close to Loiyangalani. Lake Turkana has volcanic cones rising from its water, and he lake is inhabited by plenty of crocodiles and a variety of venomous snakes.
Our visit to the El Molo village also included a boat excursion on the Lake Turkana. One of the local El Molo tribe-man joined us along with Richard to the boat. It was a motor-boat. He instructed the kids to push the boat to the river, put the engines on, and off we headed to a small island close-by.
Drive from Loiyangalani to Maralal via South Horr
The route down to Samburu county from Loiyangalani via South Horr was dangerous few years back. There was a huge internal conflict between pastoralist communities of Samburu and Turkana, which seemed to have mellowed down now. John was planning to take us from the north, but Richard asked us to take the south road. Few others from Loiyangalani confirmed that the route down south is safe and there was nothing to worry about.
Overnight in Maralal
Maralal is a small hillside market town located in Samburu County, Kenya. It acts like an important overnight stop for people traveling to or from Lake Turkana via South Horr. We reached Maralal at around 8 PM and we found a hotel in the downtown to spend a night in – Royal Comfort Hotel.
Total distance covered: 300 km.
NET EXPENSE FOR 1 PERSON (IN USD)
Let us have a look at the expenses of Day 6 in Kenya – The El Molo Tribe and Lake Turkana.
- El Molo Village Visit: 50
- Food: 20
- Miscellaneous: 10
- Petrol: 10
Total expense (roughly): 90 USD
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Wow! What an amazing worldly experience. Loved reading all the facts about the tribe and the village, how they lived and their crafts. Loved that saying too about a tribe that was almost forgotten but I mean that’s why we travel right? The kids all looked so happy and looks like they loved taking photos too. So cute! And I can’t believe that whole day only costed you USD$90!!!! All that for less than $100…. have to go!
Yes, it’s totally worth it.
It must have been such an enriching experience to visit the El Molo village. It was interesting to read about the small tribe. I hope for their goodwill and wellness. The Lake Turkana in the middle of the desert looks really pleasant and tranquil. Would love to do this safari whenever I visit Kenya.
It takes a little longer time than expected, but it is totally worth it.
Visiting the El Molo tribe looks like a unique experience in Kenya! Would love to learn about their culture and purchase the beautiful jewelery from the villagers. Too bad there isn’t an opportunity to stay overnight in their huts and see what the evening traditions are like.
Yes, they are a dying tribe and they really need support.
I love the Palm Shade Resort and it seems like camping there would be a great idea. Also, visiting El Molo village and meeting the tribe there is so cool. Thanks for the tip on hiring a local to do so – I can imagine it must be impossible to interact with them otherwise. You did a really long trip to Kenya, I plan to go there next year as well so I am going to have to refer to your blog again for more tips!
Medha, freely DM me when you want to plan Kenya. We are friends on FB also, so not an issue.
These are some really incredible pictures. I’ve wanted to go to Kenya for so long because my grandparents used to live there! Your pictures and videos really give me a sense of what to expect when I’m there. I’ll definitely come back to your blog once I’ve figured out when I’m heading to Kenya 🙂 Thanks for the tips!
Oh wow, that’s nice to know. It is a wonderful country. You must visit it soon.
We have been on safari in Kenya a few times but have not made it to Lake Turkana, or visited teh El Molo Tribe. As you say, it’s not on the usual itinerary for Kenya, and the topography and culture of the local tribe are all very distinct. Your visit to the village and excursion on the lake look wonderful.
Yes, it is a lesser known place in Kenya, but I encourage visiting such places.
What an interesting experience. Kenya is among the most dangerous countries in the world right now according to intelligence. Did you find it safe?
It was completely safe. The people are lovely, and extremely helpful. Was never scammed or robbed or anything even close. We had our best times in Kenya.
What an amazing experience and a fascinating post. You don’t hear very often of people travelling to northern Kenya to visit an almost extinct tribe. Do you know why they are almost extinct? The photos captured the barren land very beautifully. Fascinating!
Yes, true. I guess only less than 10 original El Molos are there in present, rest all are mixed bred.
What a cool experience to spend time with the El Molo tribe and learn a bit about their culture. How was it spending so many hours in the jeep?
Spending so many hours in the jeep was not very pleasing, but John and Jumah kept us alive and entertained.
I like the idea of having a local mediator as a requirement to be able to visit the El Molo village. It gives the villagers a stake on tourism. Looks like you had a great interaction with the locals, too. It must have been an amazing experience!
Yes, something I encourage every one to do, support the locals.
Visiting the El Moro tribe sure sounds interesting! Your entire trip to Kenya looks amazing and I keep reading your posts because I’m planning a similar trip next year. Your pictures look absolutely amazing. Thank you for sharing and keep up the great work
I will be posting more about Nakuru National Park and Maasai Mara, but in a few week’s time as I am heading to vacation tonight. You would love reading them too.
Wow looks like a real adventure! Haven’t seen Kenya depicted this way before, thank you for sharing this lesser known side of the country. I’ll definitely remember to try the ginger-based soda someday when I go to Kenya. Great that you kept your expenses low too!
The north is really different and unique.
I know it may sound superficial coming from me, but there are places I have on my bucket simply because I love the way their name rolls off my tongue. Such a place is Lake Turkana. (Another is Rurrenabaque.) While my love for such places emerges from their name, I then like to read about them, and discover that yes, they do have great places to see, you are right about wanting to travel there!
Hahahahaa, Rurrenabaque sounds crazy. I need to research about it.
I really enjoyed reading this post! It’s always great reading about lesser known places, and Kenya’s somewhere I’d love to visit one day. So fascinating about the El Molo tribe too; I can’t believe there are only 300 people in this tribe, that’s incredible! Lake Turkana is so idyllic too!
Yes, it is just so unique.
Loved this post for the new world that you have shared. I love cultural experiences as these for they bring out so much of emotions. Getting to know the tribes through your adventures must have been so memorable. Love the pics you have shared.
Glad that you liked it.
Wow visit to tribal village in Africa is my dream and you have beautifully done this interesting trip. Traveling to Know more about El Molo tribe in this little village must be the highlight of this trip. Lake Turkana really looks like an oasis in desert.
It is a permanent lake though, and really huge.
I LOVE this because it is so much more than what we typically think of when we hear “safari.” I think it’s so cool that you got to learn so much about the Molo tribe and actually spend time and interact with its people. Talk about a real life, hands on cultural experience. The views you got while immersing in local culture were splendid too, of course. I’d love to take this exact trip one day!
Why not! Some day soon, I wish.