Kinnaur-Lahaul-Spiti Valley in 12 Days – Day 5
As I have mentioned in one of my previous blogs, Spiti is every traveler’s dream – this is the closest you could get to Shangri-La. The word “Spiti” means “The Middle Land”, as it is the land between India and Tibet. However, reaching this beautiful land is not an easy task. It is time-consuming. We started Kinnaur-Lahaul-Spiti road trip from Chandigarh and on the 5th day, we managed to enter Lahaul and Spiti district. Firstly, we spent our days in Shoghi and Jeori-Sarahan, then we drove to Kinnaur Valley where we visited Sangla-Chitkul and Kalpa-Nako. Finally, we bid goodbye to Nako – the last village of Kinnaur valley after which the land merges with Spiti valley. The true beauty of Spiti Valley lies in its several small villages and towns. We started our Spiti exploration with visiting such villages, like Gue and Tabo – few of the real gems of the valley.
Highlights of the Day
- Nako to Sumdo
- Sumdo Checkpoint
- Gue
- Tabo
Nako to Sumdo
I was just soaking myself in the surrounding views of Nako from the terrace of the homestay, while sipping on my morning smoothie. Breakfast was complimentary along with the stay. We checked out at around 10 AM from Tashi Homestay, Nako. We would be heading to Sumdo.
The road here is managed well by Border Roads Organization (BRO). BRO is a road executive force, an integral part of the Indian army, whose role mainly involves development and maintenance of road networks in the border areas of India and friendly neighboring countries.
“Julley” to Sumdo
At around 11 AM, we reached Sumdo Checkpoint – the first village that welcomes us in Lahaul-Spiti district. Our drivers had to register their names and vehicle numbers, and also our names. We took a break here for half an hour at a nearby canteen
Sumdo to Gue
It was 12 PM when we started moving from Sumdo. Just 3 km after crossing Sumdo BRO Canteen, is a bridge over the Spiti river. We took a right turn from NH-505 and a slight detour of 10 km to get to Gue village. It took us around 45 min on the rough road to reach Gue from the bridge. We drove straight till the end of the road, and atop a hillock, we reached the last structure in the village – the Gue Mummy Lama Temple or the Gue Monastery.
Gue Village and Its Monastery
Gue is a tiny hamlet located almost on the Indo-Tibet border at an altitude of 3,200 m above sea level, between Sumdo and Tabo in Spiti Valley. The village is known for its monastery, which is famous for housing India’s only naturally preserved mummy of an old monk, locally called lama. According to the locals, it is a 500-y old mummy of a lama named Sangha Tenzin. Our driver narrated the quirky story behind this. In 1430 AD, it is said that the village was hit by a plague of scorpions. Then the lama requested his disciples to naturally mummify him to free the village from the plague. It is believed that the plague ended after he passed away.
The Gue Mummy Lama temple is dedicated to the lama – Sangha Tenzin. However, the mummy of the monk is kept in a separate room. It is protected by a rectangular glass enclosure and is in a squatting position dressed by silk robes. The mummy shows no deterioration and is still intact, even though there is no artificial preservation involved. I cannot say it for sure, but I guess the clean air, cold weather, and low humidity in the region may have contributed to its excellent state.
Gue to Tabo
After spending like an hour in Gue Monastery, we drove back the rough 10 km road back to the little bridge over Spiti river to meet NH-505. Another 30 min drive on the highway got us to Tabo village. It is located on the highway itself, and at an altitude of around 3,280 m above the sea level.
Tabo Monastery
Tabo village is famous for its 1000-year-old Tabo monastery. It is the second-most important seat of Buddhism in the entire Himalayan region after the Tholing monastery in Tibet. It has been a center for Buddhist philosophy and learning. Tabo monastery complex is huge – it consists of 9 temples, 23 chortens, and chambers for monks – everything made of mud and clay. It is well-known for its wall paintings, murals, statues, and sculptures.
We visited both the old and the new monastery complexes and wandered around to marvel at the gardens and chortens. There were innumerable books and manuscripts stacked on high wooden racks in the old monastery. We literally visited all the temples in the complex one after another. The skill of anonymous artists intrigued us. It took us a good 1 h to explore the whole temple complex.
Tabo Caves
Very close to the monastery, on the hill facing Tabo, you can see a series of artificially excavated caves with colorful Buddhist flags flattering outside. It is difficult to make out whether they are natural or man-made. Some of them are even multistoried. They are constantly decaying and have been made in brittle rock. The caves look very old. One of the caves acted as an assembly hall for monks initially. Other caves mainly served as dwellings. Flags at several caves denote that there is somebody meditating inside. The caves are difficult to reach as the walk is tedious up the hill. However, we managed to get up a bit just to get the beautiful view of Tabo.
Tiger Den Hotel & Restaurant
Finally, at around 5 PM, we checked in at Hotel Tiger Den, which is just next to Tabo Monastery. We checked in to the rooms and freshened ourselves. Soon, we met at the dining hall, had dinner, and crashed into the bed soon.
Total Distance Traveled: 85 km
NET EXPENSE FOR 1 PERSON (IN INR)
Let us have a look at the expenses of Day 5 in India – Kalpa-Nako to Gue-Tabo.
- Stay at Tashi Homestay (1 night): 900
- Food and miscellaneous: 150
Total expense (roughly): 1,050 INR
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This part of India is really a dream destination as you said! Kinnaur and Spiti Valley, far from everything but must be worth all the effort of getting there! Very cozy small villages with gorgeous backdrops and their monasteries are very interesting to visit! And of course, one must end the day with the delious traditionally Thukpa!
You must visit the place, soon.
This road trip is a dream! A friend and a cousin of mine have done this and boy they can’t stop raving about it and now through your blog I can see why is that so. Those stunning backdrops are truly a sight to never miss out on. Love how India is filled with varied beautiful landscapes all across and such varied experiences. And gosh that vegan Himalayan Thukpa at the end looks so delicious!
Glad you liked it.
I have Spiti and Kinnaur high up in my bucket list. This is something that I have been planning for a long time.The pictures are stunning. I really loved all the places, especially Tabo caves.
Glad you liked it.
I was interested to read your opening and read that “Spiti” means “The Middle Land”. As such, it is understandable that it is not easy to get to. But your posts are certainly showing that it is worth the effort to visit. I love those twisty roads with stunning views along the road from Nako to Sumdo. I am sure it was fascinating to visit the Gue village and see a town unaffected by commercialism.
Glad you liked it!
Your whole day trip from Nako to Sumdo and then to Sumdo Checkpoint and again going to Gue and ending at Tabo really sounds a dream road trip to me. This road trip has all – beauties of nature, monasteries and mixing up locals. I would love to taste those peas and how they are cultivated. Must be great to taste some local and fresh produce here. Also having vegan Himalayan Thupka must be great to have here. Tabo monastery though small but looks beautiful with those backdrop of hills.
Those peas are just so sweet.
The grey and brown hills are the USP of this region. Tabo looks so refreshing. These villages of India have some much to offer to tourists. Road trips are the best in a way that they help to discover the little things on the way. The monastery, the peas and Thupka are got to be the highlight.
I love road trips.
What an impressive place. I love it when there are colorful temples like these apparently in the middle of nowhere. And the chortens made of mud are super cool!
They are cool, indeed.
Whoa! The road from Nako to Sumdo is just wow! Unbelievable! I’d love to ride my bike on this road, it would definitely be exhiliarating!
Jhulley is definitely a strong word – the same word for hello, thankyou, bye? Wow! Intriguing…
Gue Monastery definitely is amusing in the middle of nowhere against the barren backdrop.
Bike trip, yassss!
Wow! That mummy is interesting! I would love to be able to travel this and see all of this. What a wonderful trip!
I was surprised looking at the condition of the mummy.
Good to read more about your travels in the Spiti Valley. Those views along the road look stunning. And I am sure the downhill rides were exhilarating indeed. The Gue Mummy Lama Temple certainly does stand out against the barren landscape. As does the colourful new building at the Tabo Monastery. Such a fascinating different set of views along the way.
The views are killing!
What a stunning adventure. There’s an intrinsic beauty in that barren landscape, and I’m sure it seems to shift and change shapes as the sunlight hits it differently throughout the day.
You got it!
I’ve only recently heard about Spiti Valley and the more I learn the more I want to visit the region. It’s so great to visit undiscovered destinations and get off the beaten path. I think Gue would be among my favorite places to check out along the Spiti Valley Road but the landscape alone is fascinating. Each of these villages must be incredible, thanks for highlighting some places I need to make an effort to visit!
I am glad to know that.
Wow how amazing does the Spiti Valley look!the long winding roads with amazing views! wow. I love the colourful buildings at the Tabo Monastery. Very interesting! Looks like you had an amazing trip
The trip was amazing, indeed.
This place does look like a travelers dream! The temple and monastery are a beautiful contrast to their surroundings! I think it would be fun to explore those caves. How awesome would it be to be meditating in one of them.
There are many meditating spots there.
I am impressed with your trip. You had a great adventure. The views of Spiti are breathtaking. I would love to see Spiti Valley and River one day. The 1000-year-old Tabo monastery looks impressive! I would like to reach Tabo caves also.
Yes Agnes, Tabo is pretty interesting!
Wow what a trip! I love how your included your
expenses super helpful when planning! ?
True that!
The landscapes are incredible and I would love to do this road trip someday! How cool that the guys decided to cycle on the road from Nako to Sumdo, I can’t imagine doing it myself but it sure looks like an amazing experience. I love your expression on seeing the jalebis, haha!
Jalebis are love.
I love the vastness of the grey and brown mountains along your trip. It was interesting to see the landscape changes as well as the differences in monastery architecture. Also, that vegan Himalayan Thukpa looks SO good!
The food is so awesome there.
I would like to cycle to check-point in Sumdo as the road is going down. One of the building in old Tabo Monastery reminded me of an adobe in New Mexico. I think the reasons for them to build it like that because of the weather. And how wonderful it is to end the trip for the day with a bowl of hot noodle. Delicious!
Cycling on such roads is awesome!
Another fantastic post here and I am loving those mountains. Not going to say much about the landscape as I mentioned my desire to visit here on your other posts however I like the looks of the monastery here. The area looks so peaceful, I could just spend a few hours here trying to find some peace.
Absolutely Danik.