Kinnaur-Lahaul-Spiti Valley in 12 Days – Day 6
Today, we head to Mud. It has been only a day in Spiti. The journey to Spiti is thrilling, exciting, and energizing. Day 1 was all about starting the journey from Chandigarh to Shoghi. On day 2, we drove to Jeori-Sarahan. Day 3 was about exploring Sangla, Chitkul, and neighboring villages in the Lower Kinnaur Valley. We also explored the Upper Kinnaur on day 4. Finally, we entered Lahaul-Spiti district in Himachal Pradesh, India on day 5. On day 6, we would be moving ahead along the circuit to Dhankar and take a slight detour to Pin Valley, where we have planned to spend the night at. Here I am continuing my efforts to let you travel virtually.
Highlights of the Day
- Tabo to Dhankar
- Dhankar Village
- Trek to Dhankar Lake
- Dhankar to Mud
- Mud Village
Tabo to Dhankar
A glass of mango-banana smoothie is our regular breakfast while on-the-go. The hotel included breakfast, but we preferred them to be packed as we had to leave early. They packed enough of Aloo Parathas for us.
At around 8 AM, we checked out from Tiger Den to head to Dhankar village. It is located between the towns of Tabo and Kaza, the headquarter of Spiti. We planned visiting Dhankar as a day-trip while travelling from Tabo to Mudh, the last village in Pin Valley National Park.
Dhankar is around 30 km away from Tabo, and is easily approachable by a motorable road. While driving to Dhankar, we took a right turn a little before the Sichling village. That led us to an uphill road stretch of 8 km, which directly brought us to Dhankar village.
Dhankar Village
Did you know Dhankar used to be the capital of Spiti Valley for many years till it shifted to Kaza after the administration realized the needs of the modern-day?
Dhankar village is located right at the meeting point of the two major rivers of Spiti Valley – Spiti river and Pin river. The village rises about 305 m above the river confluence, and is stationed at an altitude of 3,894 m above sea level. Around 300 years ago, Dhankar was home to royal family. Now, it is a medium-sized village of Spiti Valley with less than 100 families residing.
There is nothing much left in Dhankar village except the beautiful ancient Dhankar Monastery sitting on a hillside cliff and Dhankar Fort located just above the old monastery. In fact, the word Dhankar itself means ‘Fort on a cliff’.
Trek to Dhankar Lake
Dhankar village is a delight for trekkers as you can trek to the Dhankar Lake from here. We decided to trek to Dhankar Lake. It was high-altitude trekking, hence we got tired and out-of-breath very easily. Make sure you are physically fit before opting for this trek. Otherwise, you may feel uneasy due to sudden altitude gain. We carried water bottles and dry fruits to keep ourselves energized. It was a moderately difficult trek of 3 km, and we took around 2 h to hike up the lake from the village. The trekking trail was not properly clear, though there was no difficulty in identifying it.
We spent almost an hour chilling by the lake, silently soaking ourselves in the reflections of the snowy mountains of Manirang Pass in the water. For lunch, we had the packed food from Tiger Den, Tabo. We started descending slowly after clicking photos and exploring areas around the Dhankar lake. The descend was not that difficult but we had to be really careful of maintaining a good grip to ensure that we do not slip down. Make sure you wear shoes with good grip as there are a lot of loose pebbles scattered all along the narrow trail. We left Dhankar at around 3 PM.
Dhankar to Mud
We intend to spend the night at Mud – last village of Pin Valley, one of many hidden gems of Lahaul-Spiti district. Instead of heading straight to Kaza, we took a left at Attargo Bridge and crossed the Spiti river to enter Pin Valley. Spiti river originates from Kunzum range while the Pin river originates from the southwestern part of Spiti Valley. Both these rivers meet at a confluence point right after the Attargo bridge.
Pin Valley National Park
Pin Valley is popular for Pin Valley National Park and the snow-laden unexplored higher peaks like Pin-Parvati Pass and Pin-Bhabha Pass.
Spread over an area of 9800 sqkm, at an altitude range of 3,500-5,945 m, Pin Valley National Park is home to the ‘grey ghost of Himalayas’ i.e. the snow leopard. It is also a natural habitat to several other rare and endangered animal species like Siberian ibex, Tibetan gazelle, red fox, weasel, marten, woolly hare, bharal, etc. and several rare birds like snow pigeon, bearded vulture, Himalayan snowcock, raven, etc. The park also has many unexplored high-altitude peaks and slopes. You will have to hire a local guide to venture through the park.
Pin-Bhabha Pass Trek is about crossing over Bhabha Pass at an altitude of 4,850 m over to Bhabha valley from Pin Valley. The trek covers a total distance of about 50 km, which can ideally be done in 7-8 days. The most challenging and popular trek route here is Pin-Parvati Pass Trek. It is about crossing the pass at an altitude of 5,319 m, which connects Parvati Valley to Pin Valley, and takes around 11 days to finish. Both these treks require prior experience of high-altitude trekking and good physical fitness. Both these treks start from Mud village – our last destination for the day.
Mud Village
Mud is the last inhabited village in Pin Valley on the Indian side of Indo-Tibet border. It is a very small village with a handful of houses put together along with very few guesthouses. The village acts as a base for Pin-Parvati Pass Trek and/or Pin-Bhabha Pass Trek.
We reached Mud village at around 5.30 PM. We checked in at Tara Homestay. It is run by Tara family. The rooms are well-managed with traditional set-up. The beds are comfortable. They serve special homemade food, which is basic but yet delicious. The most interesting part is the view of the Pin Valley from the terrace of the guesthouse. We enjoyed our dinner there enjoying the surrounding views of Pin Valley.
You can visit Mud as a day-trip from Kaza, the Spitian headquarter. However, I highly recommend spending a night in Mud and spending time with local. It will give you a detailed insight into their culture and tradition.
I have never seen a place as beautiful and colorful as the valleys around Mud village. The landscape has been painted with various shades of a palette. Now, imagine soaking in such landscape with ethereal silence and miles of isolation – it seems like a paradise. Mud is a paradise!
Total Distance Traveled: 85 km
NET EXPENSE FOR 1 PERSON (IN INR)
Let us have a look at the expenses of Day 6 in India – Gue-Tabo to Dhankar-Mud.
- Stay at Tara Homestay (1 night): 750
- Food and miscellaneous: 150
Total expense (roughly): 900 INR
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This sounds like a wonderful roadtrip! I love the freedom and adventure of roadtrips, especially when you have views like these. The landscape actually reminds me a bit of the US. The hike to the lake sounds beautiful but a bit scary, how is it for someone with fear of heights? Dhankar also sounds interesting, such a small and remote village.
The hike is safe for someone with fear of heights.
I started to enjoy roadtrips coz there are always lovely place to see and surprises along thr way. This place you’ve shared is very unique and I wonder if those houses or structures are safe standing. Glad you had a wonderful trip!
They look sturdy.
Normally I’d like to see some greenery on road trips, but yours looked like quite the experience. That Dhankhar Village was the most appealing sight; it makes me think of holed up bunkers in the side of a cliff, as if they were ready for war. Fitting that Dhankhar means ‘fortress’ then. Pin Valley has some really nice mountains; though I haven’t been anywhere in the US that looks as dark and grey as this landscape, I can appreciate panoramic mountain and river views anywhere. Even without lush green trees and forests, your trip looked very exotic and intriguing.
Yes, even I love greenery, but this has a totally different aura.
Such a lovely itinerary! I haven’t yet been to Spiti Valley but have heard so much about it that I know I want to some day! Checking out the pea farms in Tabo sounds like a great idea and Dhankar Village looks really nice, with that mud mountains backdrop. I’d love to do the hike from the village to the lake!
The hike is interesting!
I always find it fascinating to see villages perched on the hills. Especially Dhankar with no green space in sight. I can see why you would want to spend some time chilling by the Dhankar Lake. The Pin Valley National Park looks stunning. But you would never catch me doing the 8 day hike over the Pin-Bhabha Pass. Looks like a great drive!
I am actually interested in the hike, maybe someday.
Northern India has soo many beautiful areas that really make you feel closer to nature. The idea of being able to see a snow leopard in its’ natural habitat is really amazing. I dont blame you for not being able to look away from the windows, the scenic mountains look stunning!
So true, Sophia.
This is so far from anywhere that I have traveled and it is so beautiful! Sign me up for a hike and some time doing photography. THanks for including the cost as well!
This place is remote and beautiful.
Spiti is one of the places I’ve always longed to go. Never been to the Himalayas. Somehow, I’ve never got around to doing it – mostly because none of my travel companions (kids and hubby) have been enthusiastic. They are more into beaches than mountains. Some day, a solo trip is required.
Love your photos and details of all that you saw and did. This is a post i have bookmarked for when I plan my solo trip!
Glad you liked it!
This sounds like an epic road trip! Great itinerary. As a trekking enthusiast, I’m really intrigued by the hike to the Dhankar Lake, it sounds fabulous too. The Dhankar Monastery looks really scenic, too, with its remote location up there in the mountains!
Glad you liked it.
Your itinerary for Spiti vallery road trip makes me more and more engrossed for this place. If there would not be Covid at present, I would be at this place this moment. I loved your road itinerary which is very detailed and have covered all major spots too. I am amazed to see the stunning Dhankar fresh water lake. Such a beautiful pristine lake surrounded by brazen mountains. Plucking pea pods from farms of Tabo must be fun on this road trip.
Thanks for the motivation, Yukti.
Spiti has been high on my bucket list. I so wanted to visit this year. Thanks to corona. I would love to stay in Mud Village for some days at least. It is so beautiful. Thanks for inspiring me to take up Spiti trip in future.
Spiti awaits you!
Dhankar village is just such a cool area! I wonder how the people came to settle and stay in the hill tops. The hike sounds intense! This sounds like a wonderful roadtrip!
Even I was amazed realizing the same.
This will definitely be a memorable roadtrip. With views like these especially. Our plan is to travel the north once we can travel safely again
Yes Tamshuk, the north is as beautiful as rest of India.
Wow, what a trip! That freshwater lake looked beautiful. Sounds like quite a trek to get there, but it looks like it was worth it in the end!
Yes, totally.
Looks like a totally adventurous road trip. All your photos are stunning especially the one of the Dhankar monastery! It must have been a wonderful experience to explore this totally pristine land. Bookmarking your blog post for future reference. 🙂
Sure, will be posting more.
Dhankar Village presents such a stunning scene to view and looks like an incredible place to visit, especially the hike to the old monestary. What an incredible road trip! All the scenery is breath taking and so gorgeous and really details such a wonderful experience. I really love reading about your journey and experiences.
Thanks Jamie, glad you liked them.
This is such an incredible road trip! I couldn’t get over the photos of Dhankar village. I would love to go see that at sunset one day, and make my way over to Dhankar lake as well. Thanks for sharing!
Dhankar is beautiful, indeed.
What a beautiful road trip this is! The mountains are simply majestic and the color of the lake is unbelievable. I can totally understand why it was difficult for you to take your eyes off the window. I’ve never been to a pea farm before, I think I’d be so excited to see the plants upclose.
Peas were so sweet there, Ummi!
Visiting Dhankar village and Mud Village seems like such an authentic experience. I love traveling to places that allow us to see and experience the authentic culture of a region and this road trip allows you to do just that. I would also like to spend my time at a home stay in the Mud Village. Sounds like a wonderful an immersive experience.
Yes Cecilia, it is a wonderful experience indeed.
Reading your report and looking at photos, I feel I am moving in time to some fairy-tale, enchanted land. It’s an absolutely fabulous road trip through Spiti Valley. I love Dhankar Lake scenery. Also, the Dhankar monastery on the rocks looks so impressive!
Dhankar is really beautiful.
Such a beautiful trip to make. It’s amazing to know how Dhankar used to be the home for the royal family but now a humble village. The lake is absolutely serene and I can imagine how you guys spent one hour there just relaxing!
Yes, time flies there.
Dhankar Village looks so interesting. I can’t imagine what villagers did on their daily lives there. The lake is so beautiful and I bet the water tasted so fresh. Somehow the views reminded me of the southwest in the US, although it’s not as wide as in Spiti Valley.
Great to know there is a resemblance.